X

Sign up to receive exclusive recipes, tips, updates and other goodies from Aliya!

  • Home
  • Blog
    • All
    • Recipes
    • Spices + Ingredients
    • Lifestyle, etc.
    • Travel
  • The Cookbook
  • The App
  • Media
    • All Media
    • Video
  • About
  • Passions
Aliya LeeKong
  • Home
  • Blog
    • All
    • Recipes
    • Spices + Ingredients
    • Lifestyle, etc.
    • Travel
  • The Cookbook
  • The App
  • Media
    • All Media
    • Video
  • About
  • Passions

Egyptian Dukkah

View fullsize dukkah-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize dukkah-pic2-500x333.jpg
View fullsize dukkah-pic3-500x309.jpg

Egyptian Dukkah

If you’ve been following this blog at all you know (and for those who haven’t, here’s the rub…), I love when traditions, spices/spice blends or ingredients from other cultures make that easy transition across into our own.  Something translatable, that takes foods we know and love to another level.

I am passionate about culturally unique specialties, and Egyptian dukkah is just that – a warm spice blend of sorts that includes the bonus of roasted nuts. It’s actually quite close to a West African tradition called tsire, another blend of nuts and spices (which I’ll have to write about soon) and is eaten in Egyptian culture much like za’atar is in other ones, with bread and a little olive oil.

Dukkah starts with a base of roasted nuts – usually hazelnuts but sometimes pistachios, almonds or cashews.  To that, sesame seeds, coriander seeds, and cumin are added and occasionally even dried roasted chickpeas.  Other spices might include black or red pepper, fennel, nigella seeds or caraway and, for herbs, mint, marjoram or thyme.  A touch of salt, perhaps some sugar, a bit of pounding with a mortar and pestle (or, gasp, a spice grinder) and you have an incredibly textural, nutty blend that can top everything from bread to salads to pastas (how ridiculous would it be on top of pumpkin ravioli?!?).

Egyptians also eat dukkah with eggs, which is genius, because it’s the perfect topper for a simple Sunday scramble.  I do love it on your basic mixed greens with a little balsamic and olive oil and can’t get enough of blending it with panko for breading chicken, fish or even lamb.   I’m thinking my next experiment will be a little sweet potato hash with bacon and a sprinkling of this stuff…

tags: Dukkah, spice blend, Egyptian spice blend
categories: all-4, spices-2
Friday 02.18.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Spicy Seafood Gumbo Pot Pie

View fullsize pot-pie-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize pot-pie-pic2-500x333.jpg
View fullsize pot-pie-pic3-500x166.jpg
View fullsize pot-pie-pic3-500x166.jpg

Spicy Seafood Gumbo Pot Pie

Pot pie is one of those winter comfort foods that is really unmatched.  A warm, creamy, thick (typically, chicken) soup-like interior with delicious vegetables topped or, better, encased in crusty, buttery pastry dough.  It really wasn’t something I ate regularly growing up and always felt like such a treat.

I was trying to come up with a way to get the soul satisfaction of a pot pie but with a little more kick to it.  I didn’t feel like going WAY spiced – say, with a Thai or Indian base – and yet I wanted something more.  Gumbo immediately popped into mind, and that was it!  All of those Creole spices, that rich thickness…gumbo pot pie was born.

I decided to go with all seafood because I actually created this recipe for some pescatarian friends of mine, but feel free to add some andouille (yum!) or whatever you like in there.  I also cook the roux for this to a milk chocolate color (time saving…) though I know people who cook their roux for at least an hour and a half to get that super dark chocolate look.  Finally, I make these individual-sized for fun and only put the pastry on top to keep it easy and, perhaps, slightly healthier.  The gumbo is rich, spicy, hearty and has some heat to it (depending on your hot sauce and cayenne doses) and tastes amazing with bites of the pastry dough…Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields 12 8–ounce round ramekins

1 stick unsalted butter

¾ cup all-purpose flour

2 tbsps butter

3 cups chopped onion, small dice (approximately 2 medium onions)

1 cup chopped bell or small sweet pepper, small dice (approximately 4 or 5 small sweet peppers)

¾ cup chopped celery

Creole seasoning (recipe follows, a little over 4 tbsps)*

4 or 5 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup sliced okra

½ cup peas

6 cups of chicken, seafood or vegetable stock

a few dashes of Worcestershire

a few dashes of hot sauce

2 bay leaves

½ cup sliced green onion

small handful of cilantro, finely chopped

small handful of parsley, finely chopped

½ cup heavy cream

1 ¾ lbs mixed seafood (lump crab, rock or small shrimp, bay or small scallops, shelled lobster)**

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

lemon juice to taste

1 egg (beaten with a bit of cream or water)

2 sheets of puff pastry, thawed according to package directions

Procedure

Preheat oven to 400° F.

I like to start by making the roux since it takes some time to develop color.   That is, melt butter in a heavy bottomed cast-iron pan (large enough) or dutch oven over medium heat.   Add the flour and whisk.  Continue to whisk at very frequent intervals (semi-constantly) for 15 to 20 minutes until the mixture has turned a deep chocolate brown.  Be careful not to burn.

In a separate skillet, melt butter over medium-low heat and add onions and a bit of salt (to draw out the moisture).  Cook for about 2 minutes and add peppers, celery and creole seasoning.  Cook for another 5 minutes, add minced garlic and let cook for about 30 seconds to a minute until fragrant.  Remove from heat, and, if the roux is ready (good timing!), add directly to the roux.

To the cooked roux, add the onion mixture as discussed, okra, peas, stock, Worcestershire, hot sauce and bay leaves.  Make sure none of the roux is stuck to the bottom or in the crevices of the pot.  Bring mixture up to a boil and lower to a simmer for 20 minutes.  You want it to thicken up, so leave it uncovered.

On a floured surface, roll out the puff pastry to about 1/8th of an inch thick.  Using pastry cutters or a glass that’s larger than the diameter of your ramekins, cut out 12 circles.  I like to poke holes now while it’s on a flat surface, so use a fork to poke little holes or a knife to make a few slits in each circle.

To the gumbo, add the green onions, chopped herbs, seafood and heavy cream.  Adjust seasonings at this point, adding salt, pepper and a shot or two of lemon juice, if needed.  Ladle gumbo evenly into ramekins.

Brush the tops of the ramekins on the outside with the beaten egg.  Place puff pastry circles on top, crimp to your desired effect, and brush entirely with the egg wash.  Place ramekins on baking sheets and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until the top is brown and crusty.

*Creole Seasoning:

1 ½ tsps onion powder

1 ½ tsps garlic powder

1 ½ tsps dried oregano leaves

1 tsp dried sweet basil

1 ½ tsps dried thyme leaves

½ tsp black pepper

½ tsp white pepper

¼ – ½ tsp cayenne pepper (whatever you can stand!)

½ tsp celery seed

1 tbsp sweet paprika

½ tsp ground mustard

**For the seafood, I like to use small pieces for a few reasons.  (1) The seafood has to fit into the ramekins with room for all of the other great stuff, and (2) I only put the seafood in right before it goes into the oven – small pieces will cook perfectly (without overcooking) and pre-cooked items, like crab, don’t turn to mush.   If you are using larger shrimp or decide to do this in a casserole dish rather than individual ramekins, adjust your cooking time accordingly.

tags: seafood recipes, Creole seasoning, pot pie, gumbo, recipes for winter
categories: all-4, recipes, main dishes-1
Monday 02.14.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Black Garlic

View fullsize black-garlic-pic1-500x296.jpg
View fullsize black-garlic-pic3-500x333.jpg
View fullsize black-garlic-pic2-500x333.jpg

Black Garlic

I was wandering through Dean and Deluca with a girlfriend the other day looking for a bit of cooking inspiration when I came across black garlic.  I’d been meaning to experiment with it for some time, so I nabbed a few bulbs.  I love to see different ingredients getting more shine in places like this…they also had a bucketful of kaffir limes!   Go Dean and Deluca.

There is definitely some mystic misperception out there about this stuff.  Black garlic is high quality garlic that has been put through a temperature- and humidity-controlled fermentation process in its whole form.  The result is an aging of sorts (not rotting!) and sweet, mellowed, tangy, molasses-like cloves that lack the acrid, sulphurous quality of typical raw garlic.

Many claim that this garlic has been used for centuries in Korean and Japanese cooking for its super high antioxidant levels (which it does have), but there’s no hard evidence to these historic claims.  The black garlic we see in stores is thought to have been created in the last 10 years.  Makes a nice story though.

To me, the sweet, almost tamarind-like sweetness is surprising!  The jelly-like cloves don’t really need further cooking unless you are going to heat a little olive oil and infuse with the clove.   Since black garlic isn’t the cheapest of ingredients, I plan to bottle the infused oil and keep around to serve with bread.  Spread the flavor (and cost!) out.  I pretty much use this where I would use roasted garlic – in sauces, pastas, mashes, dips…it’s delicious spread right on a bit of toast.  Since I’m still experimenting, I’d love to hear if any of you have used it and how!

tags: black garlic, garlic
categories: all-4, spices-2
Friday 02.11.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Valentine’s Day & Fig Sundaes

View fullsize vday-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize vday-pic2-500x166.jpg
View fullsize vday-pic2-500x166.jpg
View fullsize vday-pic3-500x333.jpg

Valentine’s Day & Fig Sundaes

Valentine’s Day.  It signifies different things to different people, and, for many, it’s completely meaningless.  I think of it as a day to celebrate someone or people you love – partner, girlfriend, boyfriend, family, or friends.  Since it’s coming up next week, I started to think about a menu from recipes on the site that would work well if you happen to be cooking for someone or even for a group.  I also came up with a delicious dessert, vanilla sundaes topped with sweet wine-poached figs and toasted almonds – it’s light-hearted enough for an early paramour, fun for a family (sans wine for kids!), and all about love for that someone special.

I think a great Valentine’s menu would start with spiced sunchoke soup.  Sunchokes are still in season, and this dish is an easy do-ahead one for an elegant starter.  For the main course, I’d go with berbere-spiced lamb chops and freekeh with summer squash and brown butter (using winter squash, of course).  The lamb is super easy.  I like to sear ahead and then finish in the oven while everyone’s eating the starter.  Also, the vegetables for the freekeh can be roasted a day ahead and reheated once thrown into the freekeh.

This dessert was very much an accident.  I had eaten some beautiful sweet cheese-stuffed Turkish apricots that inspired me to do something similar with dried figs.  I thought it would turn out artful and pretty, but my version sort of looked stuffy to me.  The figs are cooked in a sweet white or dessert wine until glazed, and you end up with this honey-wine-fig-infused syrup.  Drizzled over vanilla ice cream with the poached figs and a sprinkling of some toasted, nutty almond slices – heaven!  If you ask me, a sundae as a Valentine’s Day dessert wins in my book.  Oh, and figs and almonds also happen to be aphrodisiacs…  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Serves 4

1 ½ cups Sauternes, Riesling, or any dessert/sweet white wine you like

½ cup water

2 tbsps sugar

2 tbsps honey

¼ tsp lemon zest

½ lb (8 to 10) dried figs (I used Calimyrna figs but Black Missions are also great)

1/3 cup sliced almonds, toasted

vanilla ice cream

Procedure

In a saucepan, bring the wine, water, sugar, honey, and lemon zest to a boil.  Boil for 5 minutes uncovered.  Add the figs, cover and boil for another 10 minutes to plump up (they will significantly).  Remove the cover and boil for another 10-15 minutes until the liquid reduces to a syrup consistency.

Top ice cream with figs, a drizzle of syrup, and a sprinkle of the toasted sliced almonds.

tags: fig sundaes, holiday recipes, Valentine's Day, fig recipes
categories: all-4, recipes, desserts-1
Wednesday 02.09.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Za’atar Compound Butter

View fullsize zaatar-butter-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize zaatar-butter-pic31-500x333.jpg
View fullsize zaatar-butter-pic2-500x333.jpg

Za’atar Compound Butter

I had a few friends over a couple of Sundays ago to watch a game and was already making some of my lamb meatballs with a spicy yoghurt dipping sauce.  Wine was a given with each girlfriend independently deciding to bring two (two!) bottles each, and I had a delicious, simple cheese plate going with a beautiful Parmigiano Reggiano, a French Double Cream Brie, a Jura Erguel, and some speck and olives from Murray’s Cheese.

I had that (way paranoid) feeling that I wasn’t serving enough stuff and (gasp!) that someone might leave hungry and remembered I had some parbaked French baguettes in the freezer.  I came up with this butter to slather on some toasty, crunchy pieces of the baguette, and it was super simple and a quick fix. 

I’ve mentioned za’atar previously, so I won’t go into the whole history of it. But it’s lovely on its own or mixed with a little olive oil to dip.  The first four ingredients of my recipe below make your basic za’atar.  I like to add a little roasted garlic, which you can omit if you want it simpler.  Mix it all up with some room temperature butter, and you have a great compound butter. Nutty from the sesame, a bit tart from the sumac, earthy from the thyme – casual for a game night or elegant for a sit down dinner.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields approximately ½ cup compound butter

1 tbsp sesame seeds, black or white or some combination of both

1 tbsp dried thyme

1 tsp sumac

½ tsp salt

4 or 5 cloves roasted garlic (optional)

1 stick unsalted butter, softened at room temperature

Procedure

In a small skillet, toast the sesame seeds over medium-low heat until fragrant and slightly golden in color (for the white seeds).

Over a small bowl, place dried thyme in your palms and rub palms together to pulverize thyme and get oils going.  Add toasted sesame seeds, sumac and salt and mix thoroughly.

Add roasted garlic, if using, and softened butter and mix until za’atar is evenly distributed.

tags: za'atar, compound butter
categories: all-4, appetizers, recipes
Monday 02.07.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Vadouvan, A French-Indian Curry Powder

View fullsize vadouvan-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize vadouvan-pic3-500x333.jpg
View fullsize tasha-+-spice-500x333.jpg

Vadouvan, A French-Indian Curry Powder

Curry, to me, has always been something rather magical.  My mom would throw down in the kitchen growing up, and, whenever she was making a curry, she would take out her spice daaba, a circular box that housed little cylinders within, holding tons of different spices.  It was so mysterious to me at the time, the process of making a curry intimate, subjective, artful.  She decided how much of one spice versus another – cumin, coriander, fenugreek – went into the specific curry.  Tailored flavors.

For this reason, I pretty much never use pre-fab curry powders as I’ve mentioned in the past.  EXCEPT, and this is a big one, when it comes to Vadouvan, a French-Indian style curry powder.  Some believe the spice blend is from the Pondicherry region in South India where there’s a ton of French colonial influences.  That’s unconfirmed, though, and vadouvan has popped up as a gourmet spice du jour here as well as in Europe.

Now, it’s not like you couldn’t also make this one on your own, but there are so many spices and quite a process involved.  Garlic, shallots and onions give it a rounder flavor, ingredients like turmeric, fenugreek, cumin and coriander the signature curry flavor, curry leaves a delicious earthiness, and fennel seeds that licorice-like sweetness.  To name a few….The spices are toasted before grinding and, in some, the onions/shallots fried before granulating.  The result is a complex spice blend that is warm, a bit sweet, and a touch smoky.

The toasting of the spices takes away a lot of that raw flavor, so it’s good to go straight into yoghurt or an aioli to add incredible flavor.  I love it as a dry rub on fish that I sear and finish with a bit of butter.  Cooked up with onions and garlic, it’s delicious as a soup base for butternut squash or most other root veggies.  I’m on a pot pie kick lately and have been debating throwing it into the mix for my next one.  This blend is so versatile.

And, just for kicks, a picture of one of my dogs trying to get a little spice in her life…

tags: spice blend, curry powder, Vadouvan, French-Indian Curry Powder, French-Indian spice blend
categories: all-4, spices-2
Friday 02.04.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Lamb Meatballs with Quince & Black Olives

View fullsize lamb-meatballs-pic1-500x383.jpg
View fullsize lamb-meaballs-pic2-500x166.jpg
View fullsize lamb-meaballs-pic2-500x166.jpg
View fullsize lamb-meatballs-pic3-500x333.jpg

Lamb Meatballs with Quince & Black Olives

Lamb with quince is a truly classic combination and features heavily in the cuisines of Morocco, Tunisia, Greece, Turkey, the Republic of Armenia, and throughout the Middle East.  I recently had a stew with both that was the inspiration for this recipe – that perfect combination of sweet, tart, and textures along with the slow-cooked lamb was heavenly.

If you haven’t tried quince, it’s a hard, yellow, apple-looking fruit that is pretty tart.  The ones in the East are sweeter and more palatable raw, but both truly mellow and deepen in flavor with cooking.  I’ve been told beating them with a rolling pin helps bring the juices to the surface if you happen to be cooking them down for a jam or jelly.  They are also positively delicious poached in wine with spices and sugar and served with a bit of cream.

I went for a meatball here because there was a game on and my husband and his friend were playing guinea pigs.  These are, without a doubt, man-friendly.  The quince jam adds the perfect touch of sweetness and acidity, and I threw in the black olives for a briny touch.  I like to use both dried and fresh mint here because they offer different flavors, and I served these with a kicked-up, Greek yoghurt dip of sorts to add a bit of spice.  I personally prefer my meatballs a bit softer and melt-in-your-mouth rather than firm, so these meatballs are super moist and tender with a bit of char from the browning.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Serves 6

3 shallots, chopped into chunks

5 garlic cloves

2 lbs ground lamb

2 scallions, finely chopped

2 tsps salt

2 ½ tsps cumin

¾ tsp paprika

½ tsp cayenne

½ tsp black pepper

2 ½ tsps dried mint*

½ cup black olives, pitted and finely chopped

1/3 cup quince jam

¾ cup plain breadcrumbs

2 egg yolks

8-10 mint leaves, finely chopped

handful of parsley, finely chopped

3 tbsp vegetable oil

Procedure

Preheat oven to 375° F.

In a food processor, pulse shallots and garlic until finely minced / almost a paste.

To a large mixing bowl, add the ground lamb and make a well in the center.  Add shallot/garlic mixture and rest of the ingredients except the vegetable oil.  Carefully, mix to ensure even distribution.  I like to make a claw with my hands and fold over the meat mixture repeatedly.  You don’t want to mash or over mix as it will make the meatballs tough.

Using wet hands, roll even-sized pieces of the mixture into balls until all of the mixture is finished.  I make my meatballs about 1 ½ inches in diameter, so if you make yours larger or smaller, adjust the cooking time appropriately.
Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat.  Add oil and place meatballs into the pan.  These brown pretty quickly, so I cook for about 30 seconds to a minute on each side.  Work in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan, and place browned meatballs in a baking dish.

Once all have been browned, cover baking dish with foil, and place in the oven.  Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until cooked through but tender.

Serve warm alongside your favorite dipping sauce.

*For the dried mint, rather than putting it straight from the jar, I like to crush it between my palms and then dust it into the bowl.  It helps to bring out the natural oils..

tags: lamb, lamb meatballs, quince, black olives, meatballs
categories: all-4, recipes, main dishes-1
Monday 01.31.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Piment D’Espelette

View fullsize piment-pic1-500x337.jpg
View fullsize piment-pic2-500x333.jpg

Piment D’Espelette

I seriously have a spice addiction, and, when I recently spotted a jar of this stuff I couldn’t help but pick it up.  It’s not the cheapest of spices, so I’m rationing its use.

And, truthfully, I can understand why it isn’t.  This rare pepper only comes from the town of Espelette in French Basque country.  The cultivation and processing of the pepper is still done traditionally, that is by hand, and a little over 100,000 pounds of it is produced annually.  The French government has gone so far as to safeguard this pepper under the Appellation D’Origine Contrôlée (A.O.C.), a classification system that basically designates the quality producers in an approved growing area (with A.O.C. being the highest).

The pepper is red in color and has a truly complex flavor – sweet, mild, a bit fruity and smoky.  The peppers are harvested, sun-dried, and then smoked in wood-fired ovens before being ground into the flakes we use.  It has a really low Scoville rating which is to say it packs more flavor than heat, and the closest comparables would be hot paprika or even New Mexico red chili powder.

Piment d’Espelette is a key ingredient in Basque pipérade (see: Julia Child’s recipe), a stir-fry of peppers, tomatoes, onions, herbs and ham.  But I like to use it like a finishing salt.  The pepper is fantastic to top a soup, pep up a simple risotto, or speckle a potato or squash puree.  I love it on a simple pizza or garlic bread and add it to my caramelized onions to round out the flavor.

tags: piment d'espelette, pepper
categories: spices-2, all-5
Friday 01.28.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Savoury Blue Cheese Kunefe

View fullsize kunefe-pic1-500x273.jpg
View fullsize kunefe-pic2-500x333.jpg
View fullsize kunefe-pic3-500x333.jpg

Savoury Blue Cheese Kunefe

This dessert I had in Turkey called kunefe has been haunting me.  Shredded phyllo (think shredded wheat texture) layered with soft cheese, melted in the center, soaked in a sugary-sweet syrup and topped with crushed pistachios.  It was insane – crunchy, creamy, sweet, nutty – and you could literally only have a small bite before immediately falling into a food coma of sorts.

Kunefe is also called kanafeh or kunafah and is found in many different cultures including Egyptian and Israeli.  I couldn’t help thinking how incredible this tradition would be in a more savoury form, something small that could work as a fun hors d’oeuvres.  Replace the soft, sweet cheese for a lovely blue, leave out the sugar syrup and drizzle instead with a touch of balsamic and honey – bite-sized deliciousness!

The “dough” that’s used here is called kadaif, kadayif or shredded phyllo and resembles vermicelli.  Most Middle Eastern grocers carry it in the frozen section, near the regular phyllo.  It’s incredibly versatile and is lovely wrapped around jumbo shrimp or even layered on top of a casserole for crunch.   Here, I combine it with a bit of butter and cream, press it into a mini muffin pan, layer with blue cheese and bake.  Once it’s cooled a few minutes, I remove and drizzle with the honey and balsamic.  This is a really quick recipe for an elegant and tasty little hors d’oeuvres.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields 1 24-cup mini muffin pan

¼ box of shredded phyllo / kataifi*  (¼ lb)

½ stick butter, melted

1 ½ tbsps heavy cream

pinch of salt

¼ lb blue cheese, cut into ½-inch pieces

honey, for drizzling

balsamic vinegar, for drizzling

Procedure

Preheat oven to 375° F.  Grease the muffin pan with melted butter.

Using a sharp knife, cut the shredded phyllo lengthwise and then crosswise.  You want to create approximately ½-inch strands, so that the dough will fit easily into the muffin tins.

Place shredded phyllo in a bowl and break up strands that are stuck together using your hands.  Add melted butter, cream and salt and combine thoroughly.  (I use my hands for this to achieve even coverage).

Take small bunches of the shredded dough and press down into the individual muffin tins, so that the dough is packed tightly and comes up about 1/3rd of the way up in each one.  Place blue cheese pieces into all of the muffin tins, and top each with the remaining phyllo dough.  Pack the dough down tightly, so that it’s flush with the top of the pan.

Bake for 20 minutes.  Cool for 5 to 7 minutes, and carefully lift the little kunefes out of the tin using a small spoon.   They are delicate at this stage.  Drizzle with honey and a few drops of balsamic and serve warm.

*If you aren’t using the phyllo immediately, once removed from the box, cover with a damp paper towel.  Like regular phyllo sheets, this dough has a tendency to dry out quickly.

tags: blue cheese, kunefe, Turkish recipes, Turkish desserts, kanafeh, kunafah
categories: recipes, appetizers, vegetarian, all-5
Monday 01.24.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Scallops with Thai Citrus Salad

View fullsize scallop-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize scallop-pic2-500x333.jpg
View fullsize scallop-pic3-500x333.jpg

Scallops with Thai Citrus Salad

It’s amazing the difference a year makes.  I was actually in Thailand last winter and had the most beautiful pomelo salad, the inspiration for this recipe.  A pomelo is a huge, grapefruit-like fruit that is found all over Southeast Asia.  It’s sweet and lacks any of the bitterness typical of a grapefruit.  Pomelos have a thick, spongy pith, and the fruit shreds into segments easily, which makes it perfect for a salad.  When I got back, I had a hard time sourcing one, and then, lo and behold, a few weeks ago, I found them in Chelsea Market and on Fresh Direct!  They are a beautiful fruit, so I’m so happy they are becoming more accessible.

When I was in Bangkok, I had the opportunity to spend the day at Face Bangkok, a cool, open-air restaurant compound with a swanky bar, a Thai restaurant, an Indian restaurant, and even a spa on site!  The restaurant is part of a larger group that has branches in Jakarta, Beijing and Pudong, and is fantastic (if you happen to be visiting Bangkok) for a nice night out or drinks soaking up the chic scenery.  I did a bit of intensive Thai cooking there, and this is my version of one dish that I learned.

This salad has a few different flavors and textures that I think work really well with a beautifully-caramelized, sweet scallop (as well as on its own!).  If you can’t find a pomelo, delicious mandarins (satsumas are my fave) that are in season right now would work really well with all of the tangy and salty flavors.  The peanuts and toasted coconut provide a great texture, a little umami from the fish sauce, sweetness and tartness from the tart lime juice – it’s light and refreshing and perfect to break up winter’s heavy dishes and take in some seasonal citrus.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Serves 4 as a main course or 6 for a starter

Salad:

¾ cup dried, unsweetened coconut (chips or shredded)

¾ cup peanuts, toasted and crushed

3 scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced

½ shallot, finely minced

1 cup pomelo, segmented*

8-10 mint leaves, chiffonade

Citronette:

juice of 1 ½ limes

½ tsp salt

1 ½ tsps sugar

pinch of cayenne

1 ½ tsps fish sauce

1 ½ tbsps extra virgin olive oil

Scallops:

3 tbsps olive oil

2 lbs jumbo sea scallops

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 tbsp butter

Procedure

In a skillet over medium heat, add the dried coconut and toast until the color is deep and golden.  This process happens fairly quickly, so keep your eye on it.   Add to a bowl along with the crushed peanuts, scallions, shallot and pomelo (and any juice that resulted from segmenting the pomelo).

For the dressing, combine the lime juice, sugar, salt and cayenne and whisk to dissolve thoroughly.  Add the fish sauce and then slowly drizzle in the extra virgin olive oil whisking to combine.  Toss salad with dressing, add mint, and season to taste.

For the scallops, you want to develop a nice deep color on them.  Thoroughly dry the scallops before cooking and season generously with salt and pepper.  If they are wet, they won’t caramelize and will sort of steam in the pan.  Also, if you crowd the pan, they will also steam, so work in batches if necessary.

Heat a skillet over medium-high heat and add olive oil.  When it’s just about to smoke, add the scallops, dragging a little so that the side gets coated in olive oil.  Cook for about two minutes and add the butter.  Let cook for another minute or so and then flip.  They should have a nice brown crust on them.  At this point, I turn the heat down just a tad.  Let them cook on this side for another three minutes or so until they are cooked to your desired level.  I like mine so that the middle third looks a bit translucent and the top and bottom thirds are opaque, but remember different-sized scallops will take differing cooking times. This is what I use to cook jumbo or U10-sized scallops.

Serve scallops hot with the cool salad spooned over top.

*The pomelo is a pretty unique fruit. To segment, I like to cut off as much of the rind and pith as possible.  Then, I take out the larger, membrane-enclosed segments (much like a grapefruit or orange) and slip a pairing knife under the membrane.  Once this is peeled away, the inner fruit shreds into little pieces.  I like to do this over a bowl and catch all of the residual juice, which adds great flavor to the salad.

tags: seafood recipes, scallops, Thai citrus salad, citrus
categories: salads, recipes, all-5, soups & salads, main dishes-1
Thursday 01.20.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

The Fastest Baklava Recipe Ever

View fullsize baklava-pic1-500x282.jpg
View fullsize baklava-pic2-500x333.jpg
View fullsize baklava-pic3-500x333.jpg
View fullsize baklava-pic4-500x166.jpg
View fullsize baklava-pic4-500x166.jpg

The Fastest Baklava Recipe Ever

I love a rich and fulfilling cooking process and usually don’t mind taking my time. But, authentic baklava is one of the most labor-intensive desserts as proven during my trip to Turkey.  I got a hands-on cooking lesson in homemade baklava, and it’s an insanely beautiful and lengthy process. Yufka dough, similar to the store-bought phyllo we get here, comprises the layers, and each baklava has 100 of them.  Yes, 100 sheets are rolled out to create this delicious dessert.

A few things struck me as I first made balls with the dough, then rolled out 6 or 7 individually to small discs, then placed the 7 on top of each other and rolled those out to the full size (not nearly as quickly or skillfully as the ladies showing me…how many more times?).  Typically, baklava recipes require painting each sheet of pastry with butter before placing the next layer on top, which is more than tricky with the thin phyllo.  But these ladies didn’t do that – they cut the layered pastry dough into little squares and then poured the butter all over…genius!

I decided to adopt this method using store-bought phyllo, and the result is the fastest baklava ever.  Layer phyllo and chopped nuts, cut carefully, cover with clarified butter, bake, douse in syrup.  That’s it!  This syrup is simple, incredibly delicious and with my personal twist of vanilla bean.  Baklava is undoubtedly sweet, but I think this one hits just the right amount of sweetness with lovely honey, vanilla, and cinnamon undertones. I make mine into bite-sized little squares so as not to overindulge…It’s fantastic to do ahead as the flavor gets better, and it keeps for about 5 days at room temperature.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields 1 9-inch round cake pan

Pastry:

¼ cup unsalted walnuts, lightly toasted

¼ cup unsalted almonds, lightly toasted

¼ cup unsalted pistachios, lightly toasted

2 tbsps light brown sugar

½ tsp ground cinnamon

¼ tsp salt

pinch of ground cloves

2 sticks of unsalted butter, clarified*

1 box phyllo dough, thawed (1 lb)

honey

Syrup:

½ cup honey

½ cup water

½ cup sugar

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

1 (1-inch) piece of lemon or orange rind

Preheat oven to 400° F.  Grease a 9-inch cake pan.

Phyllo dough dries out pretty quickly, so, in lieu of using a damp cloth on top of the dough and going back and forth, I suggest working quickly and having all of your other ingredients for the pastry ready to go.   The most difficult part will be (carefully!) cutting the pastry before adding the butter and baking.  You need a sharp knife and a bit of patience.

Place walnuts, almonds, pistachios, brown sugar, cinnamon, salt, and cloves in a food processor, and pulse until finely chopped (not powder).

Place all of the phyllo sheets on a clean cutting board.  You have to cut the sheets to fit the cake pan.  Take the cake tin and place it on top of all of the sheets at the furthest corner possible.  Use a sharp pairing knife to cut around the tin.  Then, move the cake pan to the opposite diagonal and cut around the remaining phyllo.  You should have two, even-layered circles of phyllo dough.  If the phyllo dough is just a tad short, and it’s not exact – don’t sweat it.  Use the slightly smaller layers for the bottom part and no one knows the wiser!

You are going to make three layers of phyllo and two of nuts.  Place one of the layered circles into the greased cake pan to form the bottom.  Cover with half of the nut mixture and drizzle a little honey in very thin streams across all of the nuts.  Divide the other layered circle into two equal halves of layers.  Place one of them over the nuts, and then again cover with the remaining half of the nut mixture and a little honey.  Place the final layers of phyllo on top.

Carefully, cut down the pastry 5 times across in equal widths.  Turn the tin 90?, and repeat the process.   Immediately, drizzle the clarified butter over the pastry so that the entire top and edges are covered.  Let sit for 2 minutes so that all of the butter soaks down.

Bake for 15 minutes.  Lower the heat to 325° F, and bake for another 40 minutes.

Make the syrup in the last 10 to 15 minutes of baking.  Combine all of the syrup ingredients in a saucepan and bring up to a boil.   Lower immediately to a simmer, simmer for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring often until slightly thickened, and remove from the heat discarding the vanilla bean and rind.  Be careful – it can foam up, so stirring will help prevent it from overflowing.  Also, sugar is extremely hot when heated like this so avoid the temptation to dip your finger and taste…

Remove baklava from the oven.  Carefully, re-cut the baklava along the same lines you cut before.  Pour the warm syrup evenly over the hot baklava, and let cool completely and uncovered.  All of the syrup should soak into the pastry.  The baklava tastes better if it sits longer, so I advise making it the night before you plan to serve it.

Baklava can be stored at room temperature for about 5 days.  Make sure it has completely cooled before covering to keep a good texture.

*Because of the quick method we’re using, you don’t want the milk solids from the butter to burn on the top of the baklava, so it only takes a few minutes to clarify the butter.  You basically want to melt the butter on low and simmer for a few minutes.  The water will evaporate, and the milk solids will settle to the bottom.  Skim the foam off the top, and the butter should be relatively clear.  When you use the butter, decant it – that is, pour it without letting any of the milk solids that are settled at the bottom pour into your container.

tags: easy desserts, easy baklava recipe, fast baklava recipe, baklava
categories: all-5, recipes, desserts-1
Tuesday 01.18.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Homemade Strained Yoghurt

View fullsize yoghurt-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize yoghurt-pic2-500x333.jpg
View fullsize yoghurt-pic3-500x166.jpg
View fullsize yoghurt-pic3-500x166.jpg
View fullsize yoghurt-pic-4-500x333.jpg

Homemade Strained Yoghurt

When I was in Bodrum, I got to visit a little agricultural village called Sazkoy, explore the area and have a delicious(!) homemade lunch with a family well-known for the Milas carpets they weave and sell.  The village is largely self-reliant, with most families having their own chickens, goats, cows, and sheep.  Many grow vegetables and some even have their own citrus trees, ripe with mandarins while I was there.

I got a tutorial in the tradition of yoghurt-making from a woman named Emine.  She also uses her fresh cows’ milk to make butter and curd cheese from whey on a regular basis, like most of the families in the area.  The yoghurt process was completely intuitive for her, reflexive after obvious years of making it.  Where I use a thermometer in my recipe, Emine dips her finger and instinctively knows the right temperature.

The key to yoghurt is that you need some to make some.  A little “starter” yoghurt is necessary and adds the appropriate bacteria.  I like to use a bit of Turkish or Greek yoghurt to start the process because they contain only live yoghurt cultures and not the preservatives, stabilizers or thickeners that other types do.  That said, basic store-bought yoghurt will work perfectly well here too.

The process is incredibly simple – heat milk almost to a boil, cool, add a bit of yoghurt, and keep warm to ferment.  To get a thicker consistency, I like to strain my yoghurt like they do in Turkey (as well as Greece, South Asia, the Middle East and even Mexico).  This yoghurt keeps for about 7 to 10 days, and you can use some of the homemade yoghurt to start the next batch!  It also has an incredibly creamy sweetness to it, slightly less tangy and fresher tasting than the store-bought kind.  Cheaper, tastier, and how cool is it to make your own.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

1 ½ quarts whole milk

2 tbsps starter plain yoghurt, room temperature

Procedure

In a saucepan, heat milk over medium heat until it starts to bubble and foam, almost at a boil.  It should reach 180° F.  Remove from heat and cool to 110° F.  (The woman I saw making this knows the temperature from dipping her finger in the milk, not from any thermometer.  It’s still hot but she could hold her finger in it comfortably.)  This temperature is important – significantly hotter and the bacteria will be killed and the yoghurt won’t set.  If the temperature is too low, again the bacteria won’t ferment, and the yoghurt won’t set.

In a ceramic bowl or pot that has a lid, add the 2 tablespoons of yoghurt.  Add a few spoonfuls of the milk to the yoghurt and whisk to combine.  Pour the rest of the milk in using a strainer to catch the skin that forms on top.  Whisk to combine thoroughly.

Cover with a lid and swaddle in thick kitchen towels or a blanket.  You want to keep this warm for the fermentation process.  I keep mine in the oven (off) with just the oven light on.

Yoghurt time can vary.  Mine took around 12 hours to set, but it all depends on the temperature, the climate, and the yoghurt starter you used.  It could take as little as 6 hours, and some people even claim as long as 24 hours.  I like to make it in the evening, so it can set overnight.

Once it’s set, refrigerate immediately.  It will firm up a bit more as it cools.  I like to then place it in a strainer lined with cheesecloth in the fridge for about 3 hours once it’s cooled to get a thicker consistency but feel free to use as is.

Store in an airtight container; it lasts for about a week.

tags: homemade yogurt, homemade yoghurt, yoghurt recipes
categories: all-5, breakfast, recipes, vegetarian
Friday 01.14.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Kadikoy Market + Ciya Sofrasi

Kadikoy Market + Ciya Sofrasi

Over the holidays, I took an eye-opening, culinary trip to Turkey visiting the region of Cappadocia, Istanbul, and Bodrum.  You couldn’t have picked more different landscapes, and each came with regional specialties and stylistic differences in cooking.  It was, in sum, amazing, and I can’t wait to share some of my Turkish inspired recipes over the next few months.

But first…while in Istanbul, I spent the morning of New Years roaming Kadikoy market, a serious culinary destination on the Asian side of the city.   I spoke with a few home cooks and chefs, and this is THE place to shop for all of your food needs with everything from (ridiculously) fresh fish, fresh produce, spices, cheeses, prepared foods…you name it.   As the morning went on, the area became frenzied as people picked up their last minute provisions for the night.

There were some firsts for me…like being invited to have tea while in an offal shop.   Staring atkokoretsi, a lambs’ intestines specialty, or brains, or the tripe (that is stewed for a signature hangover cure there) while sipping sweetened tea was new!   I also drank an entire (well…almost) glass of pickle juice, which is to say the brine used to pickle different vegetables; it’s quite popular there for health purposes and is said to ward off sicknesses.  Finally, I tasted an unexpectedly delicious Turkish cave cheese and spooned a stuffed mussel from a street vendor into my mouth.

After much taste-testing (I’m a double-roasted pistachio Turkish delight kind of gal) and food shopping, I ended my tour of the market with lunch at the famous, Ciya Sofrasi and a chance encounter with the incredible Chef Musa, a visionary in the culinary world.  Chef Musa has developed what you could call an anthropological approach to his cooking – visiting the far reaches of the country to learn regional specialties and true home cooking from the diverse ethnicities that populate Turkey.  He also sources purveyors from around the country to find only the best, regional, seasonal ingredients – using everything from mountain greens to local wild mushrooms.

The restaurant is very casual with all of the salads, soups, stews, and desserts laid out for the picking.    We had a mountainous mezze plate with the best yoghurt and eggplant dip I’ve tasted, flavorful dolmas and fresh zaatar salad.  Then, on to the fresh sausage, a flurry of stews including my favorite lamb and quince, and an elegant dessert plate with what I can only describe as candied olives.  Delicious.

Both the market and any of the three Ciya restaurants (within a few feet of each other) are a must for a visit to Istanbul.  For the best in sweets, check out Beyaz Firin, which has everything from traditional Turkish desserts to French pastries and macarons.

tags: kadikoy market, ciya sofrasi, Istanbul
categories: all-5, travel
Wednesday 01.12.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Sweet Bread

View fullsize sweet-bread-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize sweet-bread-pic2-500x333.jpg
View fullsize sweet-bread-pic3-500x166.jpg
View fullsize sweet-bread-pic3-500x166.jpg

Sweet Bread

Welcome back! I hope that everyone had a really fantastic holiday season and New Year.  I just got back from an eye-opening culinary adventure in Turkey – exploring everything from traditional bread baking in a tandoor to how to make luscious strained Turkish yogurt to watching a woman in a village create her signature bergamot and mandarin preserves.  I’ll be posting more about Turkey in the coming weeks, but I did put a ton of pictures on Facebook if you want to check them out.

On to the usual…Sweet bread is one of those universal foods.  A quick google will generate recipes anywhere from a Romanian version to Italian panettone to Portuguese sweet bread or even our all-American banana bread.  Some include yeast and others are more of a quick bread, much like one I did a few months back.

This version is a West Indian tradition and is like a cross between a fruit cake and a bread loaf.  I’ve also seen it called coconut bread, and, although it pops up a lot around the holidays, it’s an all-occasion treat.  I love to make it for breakfast on a Sunday – a nice buttered slice of this loaf with hot coffee and fresh fruit is the perfect light meal.

Many versions of this bread I’ve seen include mixed peel, which are candied peels and fruits, a typical ingredient in fruitcake.  I like to substitute good old lemon, lime or orange zest – the flavor is natural, more subtle, and less candy-like (which makes me feel better when I have it for breakfast…).   This is a beautiful, not-too-sweet-loaf that works with afternoon coffee or even with a little vanilla sauce for dessert.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields 1 8½” x 4¼” x 2¾” loaf pan

Bread:

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 ½ tsps baking powder

½ tsp baking soda

½ tsp salt

½ tsp cinnamon

¼ tsp nutmeg

¼ cup golden raisins

¼ cup dried currants

¼ cup chopped maraschino cherries

1 ½ cups grated fresh coconut

¼ tsp lemon, lime, or orange zest

½ stick unsalted butter, room temperature

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

½ tsp vanilla extract

1 tsp almond extract

2/3 cup milk

Glaze:

1 tbsp sugar

1 tbsp boiling water

Procedure

Preheat oven to 325° F.

In a bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg.  Whisk ingredients to combine thoroughly.

In another bowl, combine raisins, currants, cherries, coconut, and zest.

In the bowl of a stand mixer or with a hand mixer, using the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugar.  With the mixer on low, add the eggs one at a time until incorporated.  Add in the extracts.

With the mixer on low, add 1/3rd of the flour mixture followed by ¼ cup of the milk.  Scrape down and repeat process another two times.  Add the dried fruit and coconut mixture, and make sure everything is fully incorporated.

Transfer to a greased loaf pan and bake for 60 to 70 minutes until an inserted toothpick comes out clean.

For the glaze, melt the sugar in the boiling water and brush onto sweet bread.  Place back in the oven for another minute or two just to develop the sheen.

Cool before unmolding and serving.

tags: sweet bread recipes, West Indian sweet bread, West Indian traditions
categories: all-5, breads & cakes, recipes, desserts-1
Monday 01.10.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Spiced Sunchoke Soup

View fullsize sunchoke-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize sunchoke-pic2-500x333.jpg
View fullsize sunchoke-pic3-500x333.jpg

Spiced Sunchoke Soup

I am still in the aftermath of my holiday party, and this is yet another dish I served that people seemed to really enjoy.  Yes, soup can be a fantastic hors d’oeuvres – I served this in little demitasse cups with some chopped cilantro and homemade croutons.  It looks elegant, and you can make it in advance and keep it warm, which for me is ideal when other items require more maintenance…

Sunchokes are root vegetables and look a lot like ginger, though taste nothing like it.  They have been popping up all over menus in NYC and Brooklyn.  My husband and I hit this adorable new place in Fort Greene called Roman’s (amazing, chocolate sorbet to die for), and he was shocked to see sunchoke soup on the menu.  He acted like they were biting my style (I almost cried laughing)…and I had to explain that they are seasonal and delicious and that’s why they are everywhere.

You might also see sunchokes labeled as Jerusalem artichokes, and their flavor does resemble the artichoke heart though they are not related at all.  I picked mine up from the Union Square Greenmarket, and they were perfectly sweet and creamy.  This soup incorporates some key spices – cumin, coriander, and turmeric – that really bring warmth to the dish but still allow the signature sunchoke flavor to shine through.  The coconut milk bumps up the sweetness and gives it a beautiful, creamy mouth-feel, and the shot of lemon juice brightens up all of the flavors.  This is easy enough as a go-to weeknight soup but refined enough for a dinner or holiday party.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6 / Yields approximately 5 ½ cups

3 tbsps unsalted butter

1 onion, finely diced

½ tsp ginger, minced

1 small green chili, finely chopped (preferably thai or serrano, to your heat preference)

¾ tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground coriander

¼ tsp turmeric

pinch of cayenne

3 or 4 cloves garlic, minced

7 medium-sized (12 oz) sunchokes, scrubbed, peeled, and thinly sliced*

1 bay leaf

2 ½ cups chicken or vegetable stock

1 can coconut milk

a few squeezes of fresh lemon juice

salt to taste

chopped cilantro or parsley

Procedure

Heat a dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot over medium-low heat and add butter.  When foam subsides, add onion and a bit of salt to draw out the moisture.  Let sweat for a minute or so.  Add ginger, green chili, cumin, coriander, turmeric and cayenne.  Cook for 5 to 7 minutes until onions are translucent and super soft.  Add garlic and cook for 1 minute until fragrant.

Add sunchokes and stir to combine.  Let cook for about 2 minutes until sunchokes begin to soften.  Add bay leaf and stock, bring up to a boil, and lower to a simmer.  Simmer covered for 20 to 25 minutes.  You want the sunchokes to easily break apart with your wooden spoon, which will really depend on how thinly you sliced them.

Remove bay leaf, and, in a blender or using a hand blender, puree until smooth.  Add coconut milk, lemon juice, and adjust seasoning to taste.  Serve hot with a little fresh chopped cilantro on top.

*After peeling the sunchokes, keep them submerged in cold water until ready to use.  Thinly slice right before throwing into the pot.

tags: soups for winter, sunchoke soup, sunchoke recipes, Jerusalem artichokes, weeknight meals, holiday recipes
categories: all-5, soups & salads, recipes, vegetarian, main dishes-1
Wednesday 12.22.10
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Mango Cheesecake

View fullsize mango-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize mango-pic2-500x333.jpg
View fullsize mango-pic3-500x333.jpg

Mango Cheesecake

I love this recipe.  This is surprisingly easy and straight forward to make, and mango cheesecake is one of those sleeper hits.  People who “don’t like cheesecake” will even love it.  And what I love is that it’s a fantastic do-ahead dessert for parties.  It’s always better to make this the night before, so it has a full 8 hours to cool.

I actually made it for my holiday party on Friday night but shrunk it down to miniature version.  It was the perfect poppable dessert – a creamy mango cheesecake in 1.5” pastry shell with a bit of glaze and a sweet raspberry on top.  These were inhaled – always estimate a 3-4x multiple of the number of party attendees!

The graham cracker crust is crisp and buttery, and the cheesecake comes out with a beautiful, silky, creamy texture, bright with sweet mango flavor.  I love the extra flavor and texture of this super simple glaze too.  I used alphonso mango puree because these mangoes, to me, have a truly rich, signature mango flavor.  If you are doing the tiny version, they only take 15 minutes in the oven and don’t need the water bath.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields 1 9-inch springform pan

Crust:

2 cups graham cracker crumbs

1 ½ sticks of butter, melted

Filling:

2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, room temperature

1 cup whole milk ricotta cheese, room temperature

¾ cup sugar

4 eggs, room temperature

2 ¼ cups mango puree, preferably Ratna (from the ethnic grocer; alphonso mangoes)

Glaze:

Another ½ cup or so of mango puree

Sugar

lemon

Procedure

Preheat oven to 350° F

Wrap the springform pan tightly in foil all the way around.  You want to create a seal since we’re going to submerge it in water for cooking.  Generously grease all of the inside surfaces of the pan.

In a food processor, process crumbs with melted butter until sand-like texture.  Press firmly into the bottom of the pan and bake for 15 minutes.  Cool completely.

Blend cream cheese and ricotta with sugar until smooth and then add mango puree and eggs.  Pour mixture over cooled crust and place in a roasting pan.  We’re going to bake this in a water bath.  Add boiling water to the roasting pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the cake pan.  Bake for an hour and 30 minutes or until slightly jiggles but starts to pull from the sides.  Cool at least 8 hours before serving.

Take remainder mango puree and add a little water in a saucepan.  Reduce by half and add sugar and lemon to taste.  The glaze should coat a spoon.  Cool completely and pour over cheesecake before serving.

tags: mango recipes, cheesecake recipes, easy desserts, holiday baking, holiday recipes
categories: all-5, breads & cakes, recipes, desserts-1
Monday 12.20.10
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Teflam

View fullsize teflam-pic1-500x336.jpg
View fullsize teflam-pic2-500x333.jpg
View fullsize teflam-pic3-500x333.jpg

Teflam

This is a bit of a one-off post.  I usually try to give you posts that have a spice or an ingredient that you can find (perhaps with some digging) to incorporate into the food you cook at home.  This is a bit different because this spice is one I discovered while in Goa.  It’s nothing I had ever seen before, and I have been unable to find it anywhere here.  But I feel like holding on to this is like keeping a secret – so I thought I would share it with you.

One of my favorite things to do when travelling is to go to a local market.  And it’s always amazing to me to see that what is commonplace somewhere, literally growing like a weed and in everyone’s homes, can be so exotic elsewhere.

This allspice-looking berry is called teflam.  I’ve also seen it referred to as tirphal or teffal fruit.  It’s grown along the Konkan coast in India and is a distinctive ingredient in Goan cooking.

I bit into the fresh berries, which have a stronger taste than the dried, and, to me, they have a taste that is strongly reminiscent of kaffir lime, though with a bitter, peppery edge.  The Portuguese called them “acrid lime”, and many believe that these berries are related to the Sichuan peppercorn.  Quite frankly, there’s not a ton of consistent information out there about them.

I’d love to learn more about this spice myself, so if you have more information or have your own experience with teflam, please share!

tags: unusual spices, Goa, tirphal, teffal fruit
categories: all-5, spices-2
Thursday 12.16.10
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Berbere-Spiced Lamb Chops

View fullsize IMG_1709.JPG

Berbere-Spiced Lamb Chops

So I made this recipe (1) because it tastes ridiculously good, (2) because I’m also doing these for my holiday party this week so thought I would kill 2 birds with 1 stone and (3) because I thought I might be able to come up with an adequate substitute for berbere for those with limited access to ethnic food stores.  #3 is giving me a really hard time.

Berbere is a key ingredient in Ethiopian cooking.  It gives their stews that blood-red color and signature spiced flavor.  Berbere comes in a ground form that’s a complex blend of dried chilies, garlic, ginger and red onion with such spices as fenugreek, ajwain, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, cumin, nutmeg, black pepper, turmeric…Sometimes it’s mixed with red wine to form a paste.  Like masala, it’s a subjective blend, and I am still perfecting mine…

Berbere as a dry rub on lamb chops is just heavenly.  This dish is truly elegant and sinfully easy to make, particularly for a party.  The chops come out a bit charred with a smoky, red pepper flavor, a bit garlicky with hints of the spice blend.  I gave a quick and dirty substitute (without measurements) below, but I would advise going and tasting the real thing.  Either pick up a packet of the spice at a local ethnic store or online or even walk into an Ethiopian restaurant and ask for a bit to try.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Serves 4

2 tsps berbere*

½ tsp ground mustard

¼ tsp finely ground black pepper

½ tsp garlic powder

kosher salt

1 rack of lamb, frenched and cut into single or double chops

olive oil

Procedure

Preheat oven to 400° F.

Combine berbere, ground mustard, pepper, and garlic powder.  Rub onto chops.  Season both sides with salt as desired.  Let chops sit for about a half hour until they come up to room temperature.

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat.  Add enough olive oil to thinly coat the bottom of the pan.  Place chops in pan and cook 4 minutes each side for double chops and 2 to 3 minutes each side for single chops for medium rare.

Finish in the oven to desired level of doneness.

*To approximate, start with dried New Mexican chilies, which are a great base for the blend.  I would seed and rib and then blend to a powder.  Mix with a touch of paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, fenugreek, cumin, coriander, cardamom, black pepper, and ajwain if you have it.  Good luck!

tags: Berbere, Ethiopian cooking, lamb chops, dry rub, Ethiopian spices, holiday recipes
categories: all-5, main dishes, recipes
Wednesday 12.15.10
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Double Chocolate Mint Cookies

View fullsize mint-cookie-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize mint-cookie-pic2-500x333.jpg
View fullsize mint-cookie-pic3-500x166.jpg
View fullsize mint-cookie-pic3-500x166.jpg
View fullsize mint-cookie-pic4-500x166.jpg
View fullsize mint-cookie-pic4-500x166.jpg

Double Chocolate Mint Cookies

So my obsession with the holidays has me thinking of more and more ways to celebrate and put my own spin on the traditions we all know and love.  I’m also in the midst of trying to plan for my holiday party this week, and I love to give my guests a little of the familiar and a little of the unexpected.  That (and a deep craving for mint and chocolate!) was the inspiration for this recipe.

To be completely truthful, this recipe, like others I’m doing for this party, is a sneaky way to save time and be efficient.  I can make this dough at the beginning of the week, freeze it in long skinny cylinders, and then cut them into little rounds.  During the party, I can throw them into the oven towards the end of the night for 5 to 10 minutes, and voila!  Everyone gets fresh-baked, mini cookies, and my apartment smells like heaven…

I wanted to create pillowy, moist, brownie-rich, chocolate chip cookies scented with peppermint.   Who doesn’t love that?  The ingredient that adds a bit of the unfamiliar is ground cardamom; the spice has a menthol-like quality that works beautifully with the mint.  I’m a dark chocolate girl myself, but I threw in some white chocolate chips for the creaminess – it helps offset the bitterness of the dark chocolate and blends seamlessly with the mint.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields approximately 2 dozen cookies (size-dependent)

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder

½ tsp baking soda

¼ tsp baking powder

½ tsp ground cardamom

½ tsp salt

1 stick unsalted butter, room temperature

½ cup white sugar

1/3  cup light brown sugar

1 egg, room temperature

1 tsp peppermint extract

1 tsp vanilla extract

½ cup dark chocolate chunks or chips

½ cup white chocolate chunks or chips

Procedure

Preheat oven to 350° F.  Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a bowl, sift together flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder, cardamom and salt.

In the bowl of a stand mixer or with a hand mixer using a paddle attachment, cream together butter and both sugars.  Add the egg and peppermint and vanilla extracts.   Add flour mixture and mix until almost completely incorporated.  It should mostly be sticking to the paddle at this point.  Scrape down, add in chips and mix for another 15 to 20 seconds until uniform.

At this point, I like to turn the cookie dough out onto plastic wrap, form into a cylinder, and freeze for about 10 minutes.  This makes it easier to cut into even sized, round cookies.  Also, at this point, you can freeze the dough for later use – overnight or longer.  Conversely, you can just drop rounded spoonfuls a few inches apart onto prepared baking sheets.

Bake for 9 to 11 minutes depending on how chewy or crunchy or what size you made the cookies.  Remember to add a few more minutes if you froze the cookies ahead of time and are putting them straight in.  Cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes and then transfer to wire racks to cool completely.

tags: chocolate desserts, chocolate mint cookies, cookies, holiday baking, chocolate cookies, mint cookies, holiday recipes
categories: all-5, desserts, recipes
Monday 12.13.10
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Turmeric

View fullsize turmeric-pic1-500x333.jpg
View fullsize turmeric-pic2-500x359.jpg

Turmeric

Turmeric, for me, is such an every day spice I haven’t really given it much consideration for a post.  You can find it in grocery stores these days, and it’s actually an herb in my daily vitamin!  But chatting with some friends, it seems that not a lot of people know about the spice – from its flavor to its medicinal characteristics.

First things first, turmeric, whose active ingredient is curcumin, is a rhizome or a root that looks a heck of a lot like ginger.  I think that’s a bit surprising to some.  The root is boiled, dried, cleaned, and crushed to powder form to get the signature deep orange-yellow spice we’re all used to seeing.  In some cultures, Malay and Indonesian specifically, even the leaves of the plant are used, in stir fry recipes or to wrap around something before cooking.

Second, its flavor is a bit bitter, hitting you at the back of your tongue, earthy, and (to me) distinctly mustard-esque.  It’s used a lot in East Asian, South Asian, Middle Eastern, and African cooking (and dyeing!) for its color.  Do NOT let it get on your clothes.  I’ve learned the hard way: it’s not coming out.  But its flavor is an aggregator – it helps meld together the aromatics like onion and garlic and the various spices in a dish.

When I was in India, every cook I worked with talked about the medicinal uses of turmeric.  As an antiseptic, many cooks put turmeric directly on raw fish or chicken to kill bacteria before cooking.  They also believed that the spice is excellent for digestion and that that is one of the main reasons for its inclusions in curries.  Other cooks told me about its anti-inflammatory properties.  A cold cloth with turmeric is just the trick for a kitchen burn or a cut from the slip of a knife (…they also mentioned that would hurt like all get out).  My vitamin includes the spice for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties but also because the active ingredient, curcumin, is believed to be a strong antioxidant.

I personally like turmeric in soups, braises, with a chili crab stir fry, in rice with some cinnamon and cardamom.  It’s a great spice to play around with.  I use super small amounts – ¼ teaspoon to a ½ teaspoon max.  That’s all you need, or you risk the bitterness becoming more dominant in a dish.

categories: all-5, spices-2
Thursday 12.09.10
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 
Newer / Older