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Aliya LeeKong
  • Home
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Creole Mustard

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Creole Mustard

You guys may remember a few months back I headed out to New Orleans, ate at some crazy delicious spots, and got to do some cooking to learn how the locals really throw down.  Predictably, I came back with a suitcase full of Louisiana-centric ingredients – maybe 5 different types of hot sauce, boil seasoning (both powdered and liquid), and some mayhaw jelly to name a few of them.  One of my favorite NOLA finds, though, was this secret recipe Creole Mustard.

Now, I say secret recipe because (and I heard this from a man named Don Creole, mind you, down at the French Market. Check him out if you go!) this is top secret stuff, and the companies that make the mustard won’t go much further than to say they use high quality brown mustard seeds (stone ground and more flavorful than the yellow bunch) and a ton of spices.  The bottle also maddeningly says that the ingredients are: “water, vinegar, mustard seed, spice, canola oil, and xanthum gum.”  Which spice I ask?!?  Don also said that this Rex brand is the best of the best, and his accent was so syrupy and convincing that I threw the bottle right on in my basket next to the mayhaw jelly.

Creole mustard takes mustard to a new level.  It’s thick, rich, and spicy without having a ton of heat.  I’ve heard that the seeds are marinated for quite some time in vinegar, and I can detect garlic, cayenne, either nutmeg or allspice, and a touch of horseradish in the bottle I have.  It’s a key ingredient in the famed, Louisiana remoulade sauce, and I’ve been using it in lieu of Dijon mustard since I got back.

Delicious in marinades, transformative on a ham sandwich, and makes a next level vinaigrette, I’m all about Creole mustard from here on out.  You can definitely find it online, but can you believe even Whole Foods carries it…

tags: New Orleans, Creole mustard, Don Creole, French Market
categories: all-2, spices-1
Thursday 10.13.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Mini Gumbo Pot Pies (Take 2)

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Mini Gumbo Pot Pies (Take 2)

A few months back, I put up a recipe for mini seafood gumbo pot pies, spicy little pescatarian pots of joy that were topped with puff pastry crust.  After visiting New Orleans, I decided to revisit this recipe and tweak it here and there.  I learned so much on my trip and got a serious lesson in NOLA cooking from my friend, Gwendolyn Scott, who owns her own catering company out there.  We caught the whole thing on film and wrapped it into my first webisode of Exotic Table, which I’ll post a little later this week! (All of the pics here are from the video.)

That NOLA smoked sausage is just irresistible, so you know I had to throw a little andouille in…I also made some changes to my “holy Trinity” ratio (holy Trinity is Louisiana’s catch phrase for onions, celery and peppers, which are key to their cooking) and added in a lot more okra to help thicken up my gumbo.

Thick, rich, spicy and hearty, but elegant enough to serve to dinner guests – little mini gumbo pot pies are a fun twist on an old favorite.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields 8 10-ounce ramekins

1 stick unsalted butter

¾ cup all-purpose flour

2 tbsps butter

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 green pepper, finely chopped

1 celery, finely chopped

1 fresno, finely chopped

1 (1/2  lb) andouille sausage, diced

4 or 5 garlic cloves, minced

Creole seasoning (recipe follows, a little over 4 tbsps)*

4 cups chicken stock

2  cups sliced okra

1/3 cup peas

½ cup heavy cream

2 dried bay leaves

½ cup sliced green onion

small handful of cilantro, finely chopped

small handful of parsley, finely chopped

1 lb mixed seafood (lump crab, rock or small shrimp, bay or small scallops, shelled lobster)**

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

lemon juice to taste

1 egg (beaten with a bit of cream or water)

2 sheets of puff pastry, thawed according to package directions

Procedure

Preheat oven to 400° F.

I like to start by making the roux since it takes some time to develop color.   That is, melt butter in a heavy bottomed cast-iron pan (large enough) or dutch oven over medium heat.   Add the flour and whisk.  Continue to whisk at very frequent intervals (semi-constantly) for 15 to 20 minutes until the mixture has turned a deep chocolate brown.  Be careful not to burn.

In a separate skillet, melt butter over medium-low heat and add onions and a bit of salt (to draw out the moisture).  Cook for about 2 minutes and add peppers, celery.  Cook for another 5 minutes, and push to veggies one side.  Crank up the  heat, and brown the sausage in that side of the pan.  When browned, add minced garlic and creoled seasoning, mix in the veggies, and let cook for about 30 seconds to a minute until fragrant.  Remove from heat, and, if the roux is ready (good timing!), add directly to the roux.

To the cooked roux, add the chicken stock and whisk to fully incorporate.  Add the onion mixture as discussed, okra, peas, heavy cream, and bay leaves.  Make sure none of the roux is stuck to the bottom or in the crevices of the pot.  Bring mixture up to a boil and lower to a simmer for 20 minutes.  You want it to thicken up, so leave it partially covered.

On a floured surface, roll out the puff pastry to about 1/8th of an inch thick.  Using pastry cutters or a glass that’s larger than the diameter of your ramekins, cut out 8 circles.  Make sure they are large enough to fit over top the ramekins.

To the gumbo, add the green onions, chopped herbs, and seafood.  Adjust seasonings at this point, adding salt, pepper and a shot or two of lemon juice, if needed.  Ladle gumbo evenly into ramekins.

Brush the tops of the ramekins on the outside with the egg wash.  Place puff pastry circles on top, crimp to your desired effect, and brush entirely with the egg wash.  Use a knife to make slits into the top to let the steam escape.  Place ramekins on baking sheets and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until the top is brown and crusty.

*Creole Seasoning:

1 tsps onion powder

2  tsps garlic powder

1  tsps dried oregano leaves

3/4 tsp dried sweet basil

1  tsps dried thyme leaves

½ tsp black pepper

½ tsp white pepper

¼  tsp cayenne pepper (whatever you can stand!)

½ tsp celery seed

2 tsps sweet paprika

½ tsp ground mustard

**For the seafood, I like to use small pieces for a few reasons.  (1) The seafood has to fit into the ramekins with room for all of the other great stuff, and (2) I only put the seafood in right before it goes into the oven – small pieces will cook perfectly (without overcooking) and pre-cooked items, like crab, don’t turn to mush.   If you are using larger shrimp or decide to do this in a casserole dish rather than individual ramekins, adjust your cooking time accordingly.

tags: pot pie, mini pot pie, gumbo, New Orleans, Creole seasoning, andouille, NOLA cooking, seafood recipes
categories: all-3, recipes, man-friendly, main dishes-1
Monday 06.20.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Patois

Patois

Whenever I travel, I do a slightly obsessive nerdy cross-referencing of sorts to make sure I have the ultimate eating experiences on my trip.  Between friends’ suggestions, write-ups, locals’ thoughts and general meandering, there’s nothing more joyful than finding a little place that embodies the spirit of a geographical location or a part of the culture.  Before heading to New Orleans, a friend mentioned Patois, where the food is “classic French cuisine with a patois, or local accent.”  I was so sold…

Like the other resto I visited on this trip, Patois has had a James Beard nod with the chef earning a semifinalist spot for Best Chef: South for the past three years.  The place is so unassuming and homey, a seamless building in a residential Uptown neighborhood, that the fact that chef Aaron Burgau is turning out deliciously modern-NOLA-Southern-French-Mediterranean food may just sneak up on you until you are stuffed and happy and think “wow, that was good.”

And it really was. All of the ingredients are, of course, locally sourced, and the menu changes often, seasonally driven.  I visited Patois on the last day of my trip, the Sunday I was leaving, for a delicious lunch-brunch.  Ponchatoula strawberries with creole cream cheese, beautiful potato gnocchi with crawfish, ramps, edamame and a dollop of mascarpone, and the crumbly house-made muffins were just the start of it.  I’m still dreaming about the gnocchi’s buttery sauce…

We moved on to the almond crusted gulf fish, succulent grilled lamb ribs with green tomato relish and finally (my favorite!) the fried Mississippi rabbit with a biscuit, eggs, and sausage gravy…eating light in NOLA is an impossibility.  I also HAD to sample the grits (as I did everywhere I ate), and these were the best of the bunch – creamy, buttery, peppery, and gorgeous corn flavor.

I did go light on dessert with a beautiful strawberry sorbet, but, seriously, there was no room after the previous feast and my diligent grits taste-testing.  This is definitely the type of place I’d go back to if I’m lucky enough to travel again to New Orleans…

tags: NOLA cuisine, New Orleans
categories: all-3, travel
Wednesday 06.15.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Cochon

Cochon

So if you happen to be on my Facebook or follow me on Twitter, you know all about the trip I took a few weeks back to the Big Easy.  New Orleans was hands down incredible – food, culture, fun.  I planned the trip well in advance and luckily made a reservation at Cochon before it was nominated and won (!) the James Beard Award for Best Chef : South 2011! I can say after my painfully delicious meal there, that award was so well deserved…

Donald Link, who also helms Herbsaint, and Calcasieu, and Stephen Stryjewski, who officially won the JB Award, conceived Cochon and wanted to highlight Cajun-style, regional cuisine using local ingredients.  The restaurant is in the warehouse district in New Orleans, and they followed it up with Cochon Butcher (also fab) next door, which has more of a sandwich / charcuterie / bar food / butcher menu with a lovely wine selection as well.  Yes, a butcher that serves wine.

Cochon has an open kitchen layout with simple banquettes and tables.  The focus is all food – which is homey, rich, and flavorful.  The menu is an all day one, so I went for lunch my first day in New Orleans (and it was packed!).

We started with the amazing wood-fired oyster roast, drizzled with this spicy, soppable garlic butter.  The fried gator with chili garlic aioli, spicy grilled pork ribs with watermelon pickle, and fried boudin with pickled peppers were also really killer.  Boudin is originally a French, pork sausage.  The NOLA version eschews casing the sausage in favor of rolling it into a ball and crisp, batter-frying it.  I never said this was a light lunch.

For the mains (I know. can you imagine we ate this much?), we had the oven-roasted gulf fish “fisherman’s style”, smoked beef brisket with horseradish potato salad, mac and cheese, and the most buttery, black peppered grits I’ve tasted.  Smoked brisket, by the way, like gumbo or etouffee, is a rite of passage down there.  We were sufficiently comatosed from just how filling, perfectly seasoned, well-cooked, and all around delectable the meal was.  Oh, and the fresh-baked bread hot out of the oven?  Out.  Of.  This.  World.

We obviously couldn’t leave without dessert, and the black bottomed brown butter banana cream pie was the best version of banana cream pie I’ve ever had.   Hands down.

This place is a NOLA must and WILL be a stop the next time I head down there!

tags: NOLA cuisine, New Orleans
categories: all-3, travel
Wednesday 05.25.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Filé Powder

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Filé Powder

I am headed to New Orleans this weekend to do some serious Creole cooking, so I thought it would be appropriate to end this week with an ingredient that is key to NOLA cuisine – filé powder.  This spice is made from the dried, young leaves of the American sassafras tree (NOT the root bark, where root beer flavor comes from).

Filé powder is a key ingredient in that most beloved of dishes, gumbo.  The flavor is distinctive and to me tastes earthy or green.  Some describe it as a combo between thyme and savory, but I find it really hard to pin down.

There seems to be an argument out there – when to include the spice, when not.  Gumbo has long been a debatable food, with each cook having his or her own secrets.  Many believe that when okra is included, filé shouldn’t.  And vice versa.  Both actually go beyond adding flavor to thicken gumbo and give it that signature texture.

A few things about filé powder…(1) It should be added to gumbo at the end and not to the entire pot!  If filé is boiled, it becomes super stringy, so just stir it in off the heat or to individual bowls.  (2) Filé loses flavor when stored for long periods of time, so buy in small quantities…

tags: Filé Powder, Filé, New Orleans, NOLA cuisine
categories: spices-1, all-4
Friday 05.13.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong