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Aliya LeeKong
  • Home
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Peruvian Purple Corn

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Peruvian Purple Corn

The other day I stumbled across some Peruvian purple corn in a local, ethnic market and had to share it with you guys.  I nabbed a big stash of it, since it’s dried and will last for a minute in my pantry.  Peruvian purple corn is a variety grown in the Andes and is used to make a popular drink called chicha morada and a dessert called mazamorra morada, both of which I had in Peru a few years back.

I’ll start with the fact that there are a bunch of studies that show that purple corn has incredible health benefits.  Rich in antioxidants and with anti-inflammatory properties, it’s thought to treat everything from high blood pressure to obesity.  Doesn’t it always seem like foods some cultures have been consuming for years for its health properties we are just discovering?

Now, mazamorra morada is a sweet corn pudding, thickened with potato or cornstarch and scented with spices like cinnamon and clove.  But my favorite way to use this is chicha morada, which is a great warm or cold weather drink.  It’s extremely easy to make, and you really don’t need much of a recipe.  You basically want to steep the dried corn in water with a few sticks of cinnamon, some allspice berries, a few cloves, a bit of apple or quince, maybe some dried cherries, and pineapple rind.  Let that simmer for 45 minutes to an hour, sweeten with sugar or honey, add a bit of (key) lime juice and that’s it!

It’s served cold, and in many places, chopped fruit is added at the end, much like sangria.  A big secret is to let it stand in the fridge for a few days.  That fermented taste is signature to a great chicha morada.  Enjoy!

tags: Peru, purple corn, recipes for winter, mazamorra morada
categories: all, recipes, drinks & cocktails, spices
Tuesday 05.07.13
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Sal Rosada from Maras

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Sal Rosada from Maras

When someone mentions pink salt, I tend to always think about the curing sort, with sodium nitrite.  But finishing salts do come in all colors – black, pink, red, grey – and this pink salt I happened to pick up while I was exploring Peru.  A lot of times during my spice stories I talk about unique ingredients and their extraordinary flavor.  This salt I wanted to share with you more for the story and the experience it represented for me, less for its individual influence on cooking.

To me pink salt is pink salt and perhaps my palate is just not developed enough.  My understanding is that the reason for (any) color in salt is due to the lack of a refining process, and so salts mainly differ in mineral content, size and shape of crystals, intensity and the way they disperse in foods.   One exception I know to that is kala namak or black salt from India – this type has a distinct, sulphurous taste that makes it easily identifiable.

In the Sacred Valley, near a town called Maras, I visited these salt-evaporation ponds that the locals all referred to as salt mines. Here’s a photo – and it can’t quite do it justice. I was blown away by the site (it’s massive and intense) and particularly the fact that these have been in use from the Inca times, a way of capturing salt from a nearby, super-salty spring.  I literally put my hand in the stream and minutes later my hand had dried with a thorough dusting of salt on it.  The pans need only natural evaporation for the gorgeous salt crystals to form.

What I loved was how the ponds help support the locals according to people I spoke with from the area.  Some of the pools have been passed on for generations; each family owns and harvests its own salt though it’s usually sold through the coop that manages the ponds.  One thing is for sure – labor cost isn’t figured in…Carrying those heavy bags of salt at that altitude and that distance would be no joke!

tags: sal rosada, pink salt, Maras, Peru, Sacred Valley
categories: all -1, spices, travel
Thursday 01.26.12
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Arroz Con Pato

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Arroz Con Pato

A classic dish in Spanish and Latin culture is Arroz con Pollo or chicken with rice.  It’s a family-style, one-pot dish, chicken cooked with onions, peppers, garlic, tomatoes (sofrito) and rice – some families add achiote, others saffron, cilantro, or culantro…whatever is that family’s tradition.  One of the best dishes I tried in Peru was Arroz con Pato, where succulent duck replaces the chicken in the traditional dish.  It was such a rich and elegant dish that I had to try my hand at it now that I’m back home in NYC.  I’m so happy I did….

Two of the differences between arroz con pollo and arroz con pato (aside from the whole chicken v. duck thing) is that chicha, Peruvian corn beer, is used to cook the rice and duck in arroz con pato.  Also, cilantro is blended with water and added to the braising liquid, so the color of the dish takes on a gorgeous, green hue.  Beer, cilantro, and duck?  A winning combination in my book!

I learned a number of dishes from a fantastic friend in Lima, Naguib Ciurlizza, a colorful and multi-talented gentleman who boasts poetry and painting as skills alongside his vast knowledge of Peruvian cuisine.  He detailed to me how the original dish was made.  I had to make a few twists and turns to accommodate what’s locally available here in the States (aji amarillo can be so difficult to find!) and to accommodate my own taste.  So I use jalapenos in lieu of Peruvian peppers.  I also substitute a good stout beer instead of corn beer and chicken stock instead of water.  Traditionally, a long grain rice is used, but I went with a shorter grain rice that’s more of a paella tradition because I just love the texture.  I also throw in some olives at the end for a salty bite.

I will be blunt – this is not something to be whipped up in 30 minutes.  It’s a long, slow, loving cooking process, but I promise you the results are incredible and rewarding.   Fall-off-the-bone duck meat in a flavorful rice infused with beer and cilantro, studded with peas, bell pepper, and olives.  It’s a meal your family will love you for or that works for a great, casual dinner party (when you want to flex your Peruvian-inspired skills).  I’m a cook, so I shouldn’t say this but…I was literally shocked by how delicious this version of the dish is!  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

Vegetable oil to coat pot

Duck, preferably 2 legs, bone-in with thigh meat and 1 breast, boneless split (approximately 3 lbs)

3 shallots, finely chopped

1 jalapeno, minced

2 tsps ground cumin

5 cloves garlic, minced

¾ cup stout beer

¼ cup Pisco liqueur (optional)

4 cups chicken stock

1 very large handful cilantro (no tough stems but soft stems are fine)

Bay leaf, dried or fresh

2 ½ cups Valencia, bomba or calasparra rice (paella rice)

¾ cup fresh or frozen peas

1 cup bell pepper, small dice (mixed yellow, red and orange)

Black olives (garnish)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Procedure

Preheat oven to 350° F.

Start by prepping the duck.  Dry the legs and breast and trim of excess fat.  I like to reserve this fat to melt down and keep for cooking in the future.  Prick the legs all over with a fork (this will help the legs render the fat easier) and season all over with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Score the skin on the breast in a criss-cross pattern (again for fat-rendering purposes) and set aside.

Heat a large pot or dutch oven over medium-low heat.  Add vegetable oil to coat the bottom of the pot and prevent the duck from sticking.  Add the legs skin-side down.  You want the fat to render out and the skin to crisp and brown.  This should take 3 to 4 minutes.  Turn pieces over and cook for another 3 minutes.  Remove legs to a plate and set aside.  Pour off (and keep!) any excess fat, reserving a few tablespoons in the pot for cooking the vegetables.

Add shallots, minced jalapeno and cumin and cook for 3 to 5 minutes until the shallots are softened and translucent.  Add the minced garlic and cook for another minute.  Pour in the beer and pisco, if using, and increase the heat.  Scrape the bottom of the pan with your spoon to dislodge any brown bits and bring up to boil.

While the duck or vegetables are cooking, blend 2 cups of the chicken stock in a blender with a large handful of the cilantro, reserving a small handful to chop for garnish later.  You want to blend on high for several minutes until the cilantro is totally pulverized.

Nestle the duck legs back into the pot, skin-side up.  Add the chicken stock blended with the cilantro and a bay leaf, cover and bring up to a boil.  As soon as it boils, place covered pot into the oven and cook for 1½ hours.

Take pot out of the oven, place on the stovetop and temporarily (and carefully) remove the duck legs.  Add the rice, peas, and chopped peppers and season very well with salt now to avoid stirring once it’s cooked.  Add the remaining 2 cups of chicken stock, stir and nestle the duck thighs back in.  Cover and bring back up to a boil.  Place in the oven for another 30 to 40 minutes until the rice is cooked through.

In the last 10 minutes of cooking, heat a skillet over medium-low heat.  Season scored duck breast all over with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Add a touch of oil to prevent the duck breast from sticking and place breast pieces skin-side down.  You want to render all of the fat out, so as the fat accumulates in the pan, carefully pour it off (and keep!).  Cook for 8 to 10 minutes until the skin has become crisp and there is no layer of fat underneath it.  Turn breast pieces over, increase heat to medium-high and cook for another 2 minutes.  This will yield a medium-rare breast – cook for longer if you like your meat more well done.

Remove the duck breast to a cutting board, cover loosely with foil and let rest for 5 minutes.  Thinly slice the duck breast.

Serve the rice garnished with black olives, some fresh cilantro and sliced duck breast.

tags: duck, Peru, Peruvian cooking
categories: recipes, travel, all-2, main dishes-1
Monday 01.16.12
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

A Twist on the Classic Pisco Sour

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A Twist on the Classic Pisco Sour

Happy New Year!  As many of you know, I spent the past few weeks doing some serious culinary exploration of Peru and Brazil (so expect me to go a bit South American-crazy with my recipes in the coming weeks).  I was blown away in Peru by the incredible produce – fruits, vegetables and herbs I had never seen or heard of.  The cooking was super fresh, with Lima highlighting a lot of the country’s famous seafood dishes and Cusco showing me more of the homey, Andean classics.  I thought I’d start this year with a cheers to 2012, a twist on a classic Peruvian cocktail (which I drank like water…).

Pisco is a clear grape brandy produced in the winemaking regions of Peru and Chile and is the national spirit of both countries.  Both also lay claim to the pisco sour, but I’ve only experienced the Peruvian version, which I was taught has 3 parts pisco to 1 part lime juice.  Throw in some simple syrup for sweetness, an egg white for a bit of foamy, creaminess and a dash of bitters and you have one of the most refreshing cocktails out there.

I saw a ton of different versions while I was there, everything from passionfruit to mint.  But I thought I would make something a bit more seasonally appropriate, since this mid-20’s temperature makes “refreshing” the last thing you want to think about.  This is sort of a cross, a pisco sour-apple really.  I used a combination of fresh fuji apple juice and lime juice and infused the simple syrup with some mulling spices – cinnamon, clove, allspice, and a star anise for good measure.  The result is a cold drink with warm spices that’s totally in the winter spirit…

A few things: For pisco sours, Peruvians use the juice of a local, small lime that’s extremely aromatic.  I suggest using key lime juice to get as close to that flavor as possible.  Also, if you are making these for a party, I suggest making them in batches to prevent the drink getting a bit bitter or the egg white from completely separating out.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

Spice-Infused Simple Syrup*:

Yields about ¾ cup

½  cup white sugar

½  cup water

2 cinnamon stick

3 whole cloves

3 whole dried allspice berries

2 star anise

2 bay leaf

pinch of ground nutmeg

1 inch piece of meyer lemon rind

Pisco Sour Apple:

1 ¾ cups pisco

¼ cup lime juice (preferably key lime)

1/3 cup fresh apple juice

¾ cup spice-infused simple syrup

2 egg whites

ice

angostura bitters (garnish)

Procedure

For the simple syrup, bring all ingredients in a small saucepan up to a boil, stirring so the sugar dissolves.  Remove from the heat, cover and let steep for 15 minutes.  Strain and cool before using.

For the pisco sour apple, pour pisco, both juices, and the simple syrup into a blender.  Blend briefly.  Add egg whites and blend for another 10 seconds.  Pour into glasses over ice and add a few dashes of angostura bitters to each.  Serve immediately.

*Feel free to use your favorite mulling spices here and make this your own.  I used meyer lemon rind because I had some sitting around and felt it would work well with the lime juice.  Orange rind is great too.

 

tags: Pisco Sour, Peru, cocktails
categories: all-2, drinks & cocktails, recipes, travel
Monday 01.09.12
Posted by Aliya LeeKong