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Aliya LeeKong
  • Home
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Huacatay

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Huacatay

Ahhh….the last of my stash of huacatay (pronounced wah-kah-tie).  This is the dried form of the herb I brought back from Peru and luckily still retains some of that signature flavor.  I usually avoid buying spices in plastic like this because the plastic has a tendency to “breathe” and basically that translates into deterioration of the aroma and flavor of the spice before you even bring it home…but desperate times call for desperate measures, and I just had to bring this herb home.

Huacatay is a staple herb in Peruvian cooking – it’s from the Andes (the word is in the local quechua language) and is used in signature dishes out there like pachamanca (an underground bbq of sorts).  It’s often ground to a paste before it’s used – mixed with fresh cheese and milk for a sauce for potatoes or with peanuts and chilies.  I actually watched a woman make an old school version of the peanut / chile / huacatay paste with a super cool mortar and pestle and have it on video!  And whenever I figure out how to edit it all, I’ll share it with you.

What does this herb taste like is the million dollar question?  To me….it honestly tastes like mint mixed with bubblegum flavor and is often mistakenly referred to as black mint.  I know!  That doesn’t sound particularly appetizing, but I swear it is nothing short of alluring in a dish. I literally couldn’t get enough of its unique flavor while I was there.  I’m sure the other question is where can I get it?  THAT, I am still working on – I’ve seen the paste in specialty stores but not yet the dried form (forget fresh).  I’m sure the some of the Latin stores carry it and will update when I find out!

tags: huacatay, herbs, Peruvian cooking
categories: all -1, spices
Thursday 03.01.12
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Quinoa Crusted Shrimp with Chipotle Mayo

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Quinoa Crusted Shrimp with Chipotle Mayo

It feels like over the last few years, Americans have gotten really smart about the health benefits and cooking of quinoa (and, in reality, about a lot of the ancient grains / foods that are showing up in supermarkets).  Quinoa, in particular, has gotten a lot of attention because it’s a complete protein source, high in fiber and minerals and is gluten-free.  The “pseudograin” is actually native to the Andes and a big part of the diet out there, so while I was in Peru a few weeks back, I was a bit obsessed with learning traditional quinoa recipes.

I had the opportunity to cook with a few chefs in the Sacred Valley, and they gave me their creative interpretations of the grain – using it in surprisingly delicious, brothy soups, cooking it like a risotto in a dish called “quinotto”, and even sweet, in a dessert that’s not unlike a frozen rice pudding.  I too wanted to put my spin on it, so I thought replacing traditional breading for fried shrimp with quinoa would create a healthier (but still super flavorful) option.

And this recipe is almost gluten-free.  You can easily replace the all-purpose flour in this recipe with rice flour, and you are good to go.  One of the chilies used in Peruvian cooking (the “ajis” as they call it) is aji panca, a dried, smoky chili which I think has a similar flavor profile to the chipotle.  I thought a creamy, homemade mayo spiked with chipotle pepper would be the perfect accompaniment to this shrimp.  The quinoa crust is nutty, crunchy and satisfying and tastes heavenly with a bit of smoky, spicy mayo….Enjoy!

Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

For the shrimp:

½ cup flour

1 tsp salt

¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper

½ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp paprika

¾ tsp garlic powder

½ tsp onion powder

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup raw quinoa*

1 lb medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

Olive or vegetable oil, for frying

For the chipotle mayo:

Yields ¾ cup

1 egg yolk

1 garlic clove

½ tsp mustard

1 tbsp lemon juice

150 mL olive oil

generous pinch of salt

1 chipotle in adobo sauce

Procedure

Let’s start by quinoa-crusting the shrimp.  Set up 3 bowls and a baking sheet with a rack on top.  In the first bowl, thoroughly mix together the flour with the salt and all of the ground spices.  The second bowl will have the beaten eggs, and the third bowl, the quinoa.  For each shrimp, holding by the tail dip them in the flour mixture, eggs, and then quinoa – shaking off excess at each stage.  Place on the rack on the baking sheet and set in the fridge while heating the oil.

In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat 2 to 3 inches of oil to 375° – 380° F.  The key here is that the oil has to be hot enough or the quinoa won’t cook through.  It should be crisp but not taste raw.  You want to work in batches so the oil temperature doesn’t drop too much – the overall goal is to keep the temperature above 360° F for the duration of cooking.  Fry shrimp for 3 minutes and transfer to another rack on a baking sheet.  Immediately, season with a bit of salt while it’s hot out of the oil.

For the mayo, in a food processor or a blender, blend together the egg yolk with the garlic clove, mustard, and lemon juice.  With the machine on, slowly drizzle in the olive oil until fully incorporated.  Add the chipotle and blend until uniform.

Serve shrimp hot with a side of the chipotle mayo.

*I used a combination of red and white quinoa here (and would have used black as well had I found it).  You can use whatever variety you have on hand.

tags: quinoa, shrimp, chipotle mayo, Peruvian cooking
categories: all -1, appetizers, recipes
Monday 01.23.12
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Arroz Con Pato

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Arroz Con Pato

A classic dish in Spanish and Latin culture is Arroz con Pollo or chicken with rice.  It’s a family-style, one-pot dish, chicken cooked with onions, peppers, garlic, tomatoes (sofrito) and rice – some families add achiote, others saffron, cilantro, or culantro…whatever is that family’s tradition.  One of the best dishes I tried in Peru was Arroz con Pato, where succulent duck replaces the chicken in the traditional dish.  It was such a rich and elegant dish that I had to try my hand at it now that I’m back home in NYC.  I’m so happy I did….

Two of the differences between arroz con pollo and arroz con pato (aside from the whole chicken v. duck thing) is that chicha, Peruvian corn beer, is used to cook the rice and duck in arroz con pato.  Also, cilantro is blended with water and added to the braising liquid, so the color of the dish takes on a gorgeous, green hue.  Beer, cilantro, and duck?  A winning combination in my book!

I learned a number of dishes from a fantastic friend in Lima, Naguib Ciurlizza, a colorful and multi-talented gentleman who boasts poetry and painting as skills alongside his vast knowledge of Peruvian cuisine.  He detailed to me how the original dish was made.  I had to make a few twists and turns to accommodate what’s locally available here in the States (aji amarillo can be so difficult to find!) and to accommodate my own taste.  So I use jalapenos in lieu of Peruvian peppers.  I also substitute a good stout beer instead of corn beer and chicken stock instead of water.  Traditionally, a long grain rice is used, but I went with a shorter grain rice that’s more of a paella tradition because I just love the texture.  I also throw in some olives at the end for a salty bite.

I will be blunt – this is not something to be whipped up in 30 minutes.  It’s a long, slow, loving cooking process, but I promise you the results are incredible and rewarding.   Fall-off-the-bone duck meat in a flavorful rice infused with beer and cilantro, studded with peas, bell pepper, and olives.  It’s a meal your family will love you for or that works for a great, casual dinner party (when you want to flex your Peruvian-inspired skills).  I’m a cook, so I shouldn’t say this but…I was literally shocked by how delicious this version of the dish is!  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

Vegetable oil to coat pot

Duck, preferably 2 legs, bone-in with thigh meat and 1 breast, boneless split (approximately 3 lbs)

3 shallots, finely chopped

1 jalapeno, minced

2 tsps ground cumin

5 cloves garlic, minced

¾ cup stout beer

¼ cup Pisco liqueur (optional)

4 cups chicken stock

1 very large handful cilantro (no tough stems but soft stems are fine)

Bay leaf, dried or fresh

2 ½ cups Valencia, bomba or calasparra rice (paella rice)

¾ cup fresh or frozen peas

1 cup bell pepper, small dice (mixed yellow, red and orange)

Black olives (garnish)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Procedure

Preheat oven to 350° F.

Start by prepping the duck.  Dry the legs and breast and trim of excess fat.  I like to reserve this fat to melt down and keep for cooking in the future.  Prick the legs all over with a fork (this will help the legs render the fat easier) and season all over with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Score the skin on the breast in a criss-cross pattern (again for fat-rendering purposes) and set aside.

Heat a large pot or dutch oven over medium-low heat.  Add vegetable oil to coat the bottom of the pot and prevent the duck from sticking.  Add the legs skin-side down.  You want the fat to render out and the skin to crisp and brown.  This should take 3 to 4 minutes.  Turn pieces over and cook for another 3 minutes.  Remove legs to a plate and set aside.  Pour off (and keep!) any excess fat, reserving a few tablespoons in the pot for cooking the vegetables.

Add shallots, minced jalapeno and cumin and cook for 3 to 5 minutes until the shallots are softened and translucent.  Add the minced garlic and cook for another minute.  Pour in the beer and pisco, if using, and increase the heat.  Scrape the bottom of the pan with your spoon to dislodge any brown bits and bring up to boil.

While the duck or vegetables are cooking, blend 2 cups of the chicken stock in a blender with a large handful of the cilantro, reserving a small handful to chop for garnish later.  You want to blend on high for several minutes until the cilantro is totally pulverized.

Nestle the duck legs back into the pot, skin-side up.  Add the chicken stock blended with the cilantro and a bay leaf, cover and bring up to a boil.  As soon as it boils, place covered pot into the oven and cook for 1½ hours.

Take pot out of the oven, place on the stovetop and temporarily (and carefully) remove the duck legs.  Add the rice, peas, and chopped peppers and season very well with salt now to avoid stirring once it’s cooked.  Add the remaining 2 cups of chicken stock, stir and nestle the duck thighs back in.  Cover and bring back up to a boil.  Place in the oven for another 30 to 40 minutes until the rice is cooked through.

In the last 10 minutes of cooking, heat a skillet over medium-low heat.  Season scored duck breast all over with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Add a touch of oil to prevent the duck breast from sticking and place breast pieces skin-side down.  You want to render all of the fat out, so as the fat accumulates in the pan, carefully pour it off (and keep!).  Cook for 8 to 10 minutes until the skin has become crisp and there is no layer of fat underneath it.  Turn breast pieces over, increase heat to medium-high and cook for another 2 minutes.  This will yield a medium-rare breast – cook for longer if you like your meat more well done.

Remove the duck breast to a cutting board, cover loosely with foil and let rest for 5 minutes.  Thinly slice the duck breast.

Serve the rice garnished with black olives, some fresh cilantro and sliced duck breast.

tags: duck, Peru, Peruvian cooking
categories: recipes, travel, all-2, main dishes-1
Monday 01.16.12
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Peruvian-Style Roast Chicken

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Peruvian-Style Roast Chicken

A few weeks back on Facebook, I asked people to share their favorite family dishes – authentic, traditional food they love to eat at home.  As you know, I love to take old world flavors and traditions and reinvent them in ways that we can use in our every day cooking.  One dish that came up was aji de gallina, a typical Peruvian dish.  Chicken is cooked and topped with a rich creamy sauce that includes walnuts, garlic, breadcrumbs, and parmesan and is spiced with the yellow aji amarillo pepper.  The sauce is incredibly addictive and the aji lends such distinctive flavor and just the right amount of heat.

I had a craving the other night for roast chicken, which I think is the ULTIMATE in winter, comfort food.  Roast chicken is also a complete blank canvas, and, like everyone else, I’m constantly searching for ways to take it to the next level.  When I looked at the components of the Peruvian sauce, the ingredients called to mind a tasty stuffing, so I decided to convert aji de gallina into a roast chicken spiced with aji amarillo and filled with a beautiful, nutty, cheesy stuffing.

If you can get past the whole trussing part, roast chicken is extraordinarily easy and satisfying to make.  This recipe creates a gorgeous result – golden brown, tender and juicy, and snap-crispy skin.  The aji and cumin butter rub is what gives the skin that great texture.  The stuffing – bacon, onion, garlic, spices, walnuts, parm – creates the moisture inside the chicken.  I always make a little more stuffing than what fits in the bird and throw it into some ramekins because stuffing always goes quickly!  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Stuffing:*

2 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into small dice

1 medium onion, diced

1 ½ tsps ground aji amarillo

½ tsp ground cumin

3 or 4 garlic cloves, minced

½ cup white wine

¼ cup chicken stock

¼ cup heavy cream

5 slices white Pullman bread, cubed

½ cup raw walnut halves, toasted and crushed

1/3 cup ground parmesan

1 egg, beaten

Chicken:

5 tbsp unsalted butter, room temperature

1 ½ tsps ground aji amarillo

½ tsp ground cumin

1 4 – 5 lb roasting chicken

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Procedure

Before I start, there are a few keys to a crispy, succulent roast chicken.  First, the chicken must be completely dry.  After removing the covering and rinsing and drying the inside of the chicken, I like to place it, uncovered, on a rack on a baking sheet on a low shelf in the fridge (not touching anything!).  I leave it there for a couple of hours or even up to a day.  The air circulates and dries out the chicken from all sides.  Second, the chicken has to be at room temperature before putting it in the oven.  Take it out of the fridge at least an hour before you plan to cook.  The next things are a hot starting temperature and lots of salt!  Which we’ll get to…

Preheat the oven to 475° F.

For the stuffing, in a medium skillet on medium heat, add the diced bacon.  Cook for a few minutes until browned and crispy, remove using a slotted spoon to a paper towel-lined plate, and set aside.  Add the diced onion, aji, and cumin back into the pan with the bacon fat (should be enough but add a little oil or butter if not).  Cook for 3 to 5 minutes until the onions are translucent, add the minced garlic and cook for another minute.  Add the white wine and let reduce, stirring, until it’s almost all evaporated.  Add in the chicken stock and cream and reduce the heat, simmering for another 2 to 3 minutes until thickened.  Remove from heat and let mixture cool.

In a large bowl, add the bread cubes, crushed walnuts, parmesan, egg, bacon and onion mixture.  Stir to evenly distribute.  (Don’t do this until you are ready to stuff the chicken, so the stuffing doesn’t get soggy.)

For the chicken, combine softened butter with aji and cumin.  Massage butter all over the outside and inside of the bird.  Season generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and stuff with the stuffing.

At this point, you want to truss the bird for even cooking.  Here’s a great video (http://ruhlman.com/2010/07/how-to-truss-a-chicken.html) .

Place the stuffed, trussed chicken on a rack in a roasting pan, breast-side up, and into the oven.  Cook for 25 minutes and reduce the heat to 375° F.  Cook for another 45 minutes or so.  The safe internal temperature of cooked chicken is 165° F.  I check the temperature with a thermometer inserted into the thigh joint and actually take mine out of the oven around 155° F.   I then rest it on a cutting board for 15 minutes to finish cooking.

Slice (the juices should run clear) and serve!

*For this dish I create more stuffing than I can fit in the bird because I don’t think what can fit inside is enough for a side dish!  I like to take the leftover stuffing and throw it into buttered ramekins or a small, greased baking dish.  For the last 25 minutes of cooking, I throw the excess stuffing into the oven and let it get browned and crispy.

tags: roast chicken, Peruvian cooking, comfort food, recipes for winter
categories: all-4, recipes, main dishes-1
Monday 03.07.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong