Deadly Cape Malva Pudding

In a previous post on luscious bobotie, I mentioned some fun cooking I did while travelling around South Africa and a dessert I had there, Cape Malva pudding. When Americans think pudding, it’s usually the sweet, cornstarch-thickened milk kind or, more often, the Jell-O sort. But, historically, puddings are sweet or savoury and actually take a more solid form (like a Yorkshire or even a bread pudding). In Europe or in places where Europeans migrated, these sorts of puddings are really popular, and this one is Dutch in origin, brought to South Africa sometime after the Dutch East India Company established Cape Town in the 1600’s.

At some point during try # 572 (exaggeration but it took me fooorever to create a recipe that I was 100% happy with), I was texting with a girlfriend who spent some time modeling in South Africa. She’s always interesting to talk to because she was born in Somalia, spent the early part of her life in Kenya, and then grew up in Seattle. She has travelled all over the world, and unlike the rest of us, can eat things like Malva pudding and still stay thin enough to model! Anyway, when I mentioned that I was making it, she wrote back one word: DEADLY. Can’t wait until she comes to New York in a few weeks so I can attempt to fatten her up with this…:)

This dessert is, indeed, deadly, the type that gets even better the next day. The result is slightly spongy, super moist and buttery, with an amazing caramelized exterior. The sauce is thin and meant to be poured over the pudding to soak in and give it added moisture and flavor. I used brandy in my sauce, but Amarula would be fantastic here. The sauce can easily be made as is without the alcohol if you’re serving this to kids, and it’s still lovely. Malva pudding is typically served in the Cape warm and with a side of custard (as if it needs anything else!). Devonshire cream, mascarpone, whipped cream, or even ice cream are the perfect accompaniments. Delicious. Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields 1 10-12 cup Bundt or ring-shaped cake pan

Pudding:

1 ½ cups flour

1 ½ tbsps baking soda

2 tsps baking powder

3/4 tsp salt

3 tbsps butter, softened at room temperature

1 ½ cups sugar

4 eggs, room temperature

2 tbsps red wine vinegar, room temperature

3 ½ tbsps apricot jam, room temperature

2 tsps vanilla extract

1 ½ cups milk, room temperature

Sauce:

¾ cup fresh cream

½ cup sugar

½ stick butter

1/3 cup water

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 – 2 tbsps brandy (whatever works for your tipsy scale)

Procedure

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

In a bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

All ingredients should be at room temperature. In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, cream together butter and sugar. With the mixer still running, add eggs one at a time. Once incorporated, add vinegar, apricot jam, and vanilla extract. With the mixer on low, add one third of the flour mixture and then one third of the milk. Repeat process two more times.

At this point, I stop the mixer and scrape down the sides. Then, I turn it back on long enough to make sure that all of the flour is incorporated. You don’t want to over mix and develop the glutens in the flour, but you do want to make sure that there are no dry spots in the mixture.

Pour into a heavily greased and well-floured Bundt, or other ring-shaped pan (single piece – no detachments – and preferably non-stick) or baking dish of your choice. It should come up a little over halfway the size of the dish as it will rise significantly. Bake at 350° F for 45 minutes, longer if needed – until an inserted cake tester or toothpick comes out clean. The outside should be well caramelized.

For the sauce, simply heat all of the ingredients in a small saucepan, whisking to make sure all of the sugar is dissolved. Keep warm until you are ready to pour. If you let this sit too long, a skin will form on top. If this happens, just strain before pouring.

If you are unmolding the pudding, cool for about 15 minutes, run a knife around the edge if necessary and turn onto a plate. Poke holes all over the pudding with a knife or a skewer, and slowly pour or spoon the sauce over all sides. You want the sauce to soak in everywhere. If you pour too quickly, the sauce will just pool and will make only the bottom part of the pudding moist.

If you are not unmolding, simply poke holes all over and pour the sauce right in.

South African-Style Shepherd’s Pie

The World Cup madness of a few weeks ago had me reminiscing about South Africa. A year and a half ago I spent some time there and actually cooked with a Dutch couple in their home in Kalk Bay, an incredible experience.

I love South African food; it’s truly a multi-ethnic cuisine, a rich combination of all of the cultures that inhabit the country – Dutch, Malay, Indian, Arab, Portuguese, German and, of course, the indigenous Africans (Khoikhoi, Xhosa, Zulu). Gertie, the lady of the house, was incredibly knowledgeable about Cape Malay food. Cape Malay people are a community of Muslim, Malaysian heritage that arrived in South Africa from Java in the 1600’s. Their food has become synonymous with South African cuisine, bringing much of the spice, curries, and chilies.

We ate such a feast that night! South African rock lobster, rack of karroo lamb, old cape malva pudding (which I now HAVE to make. it’s beyond. look out for it soon), and the dish I am showing you today, bobotie. Before I discuss bobotie , I have to mention the wines we had with this meal. Gertie paired a Gewurtraminer with the bobotie because it’s both spicy and sweet, and the Gwertz complemented it wonderfully. But the most AMAZING wine was the 2007 Diemersfontein Pinotage. It literally tasted like chocolate and coffee, two of my personal favorites. The flavor of it stays with me until today. Unfortunately, to ship it home costed more than the wine, itself, so we didn’t. And now I can’t find it anywhere in the U.S….sad.

But, anyway, bobotie is an absolutely beautiful alternative to shepherd’s pie. It traditionally starts with either ground lamb or beef, spiced with curry powder and apricot preserves, and is layered on top with an egg custard. Amazing – spicy, sweet, with a creaminess from the egg custard. I actually use a combo of ground beef, veal, and pork, and, instead of apricot preserves, I use red currant jelly. It comes out richer and with a more robust flavor. Oh, and also, I don’t use curry powder….ever. Curry is a blend of spices, so, although the traditional recipe uses a pre-fab powder, I give a personal blend.

This makes a lovely casserole (all men cheer!), but I made it in individual portions here in soufflé ramekins – automatic portion control and it looks much prettier. Baking it in a water bath is also key to creating a luscious egg custard and not some sort of dried-out frittata layer. Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields 4 10-ounce ramekins

Meat Filling:

1 slice white bread or brioche

2/3 cup milk

1 yellow onion (small)

2 ½ tbsps canola oil

1 or 2 green chilies, jalapeno or serrano

¼ tsp ginger, grated

1 ¼ lbs ground beef, pork, & veal (ask the butcher to do it thirds)

½ tsp turmeric

½ tsp cumin

½ tsp coriander

¼ tsp garam masala

½ tsp hot paprika

¼ tsp cayenne

½ tsp black pepper

3 garlic cloves

4 tbsps red currant jelly

2 tbsps malt vinegar

1 plum tomato, roughly chopped

salt

Egg Custard:

4 eggs

¾ cup heavy cream

pinch of salt

chives, for garnish

Procedure

Preheat oven to 350° F.

Place bread in a bowl and cover with milk. Let sit until ready to use, turning if necessary to make sure entire piece of bread is soaked.

Heat pan over medium-low heat. Add oil and sauté onions and chillies for 1 minute. Add ginger, turmeric, cumin, coriander, garam masala, hot paprika, cayenne, and black pepper and sauté another 4 to 5 minutes until onions are translucent. Add garlic and cook for under a minute or until it becomes fragrant.

Increase heat to medium-high. Add meat and brown for 3 to 4 minutes. Add red currant jelly, malt vinegar, and tomato, lower heat and simmer uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes.

Transfer mixture to a bowl using a slotted spoon and let cool briefly. Wring out excess milk from bread and add to meat mixture. Mix thoroughly. Fill 4 10-ounce ramekins ¾ full with meat mixture and place ramekins in a baking dish.

Combine eggs, heavy cream and pinch of salt and pour to fill ramekins. You want to bake these in a water bath, so fill baking dish with boiling water until it comes at least halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

Bake for 30 minutes or until the custard is set. Let cool for a few minutes before serving.

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Deadly Cape Malva Pudding

South African-Style Shepherd’s Pie