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Aliya LeeKong
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Hello Spring, Goodbye Peak Season Citrus

HELLO SPRING, GOODBYE PEAK SEASON CITRUS

With the arrival of all the fresh spring produce, we often forget the fact that the citrus season is coming to an end.  I mean, you can get lemons, limes, oranges, grapefruit etc. all year round, so why would you miss it?  But the citrus family goes far beyond those 4 common fruits.  Below are a few of my favorites and how I like to preserve them until they are back in season next winter!

      

MEYER LEMONS

Meyer lemons are a hybrid of a lemon and a mandarin or orange.  These guys are my go-to for salad dressings (and cocktails) because of their sweetness and when I don’t want that acidic, lemon-y taste that a regular lemon gives me.  You can find them in your grocery store in the winter but, lately, they've become more popular and can be found year round in most specialty stores.  They have a more orange tinge to their flesh as opposed to their “parent” the regular yellow lemon and are a bit softer.  Preserving lemons in the traditional, Moroccan style is really easy and adds amazing, bright flavor to recipes.  All you need is a bunch of lemons (Meyer or otherwise), jars and salt!  Although they are traditional in tagines, stews and savoury dishes, a preserved lemon curd is another great use for them.

 

 

KUMQUATS

Photo: BBC Good Food

Photo: BBC Good Food

These little, olive-sized fruits are amazing - they are super healthy for you, and I grew up with a kumquat tree in my backyard.  I remember trying them at intervals as they ripened and went from really tart to a floral sweetness.  As opposed to the other citrus fruits, you can pop them in your mouth, peel and all.  The have a lightly sweet, tangy flavor and are packed full of vitamin C and fiber.  These are probably one of my favorite citrus fruits and when I can find them in the stores I buy a bunch to preserve them and make marmalades or chutneys…or both!  

 

 

BLOOD ORANGES

These beautiful, blood red-colored oranges are my favorite flavor for fresh squeezed OJ or for the Dominican drink, morir sonando.  They are the primary orange grown in Italy, so you will find many Italian recipes with it as a main ingredient (i.e. ricotta cakes, gelato, Italian soda).  They often have a sweet bite to them but can also be very tart, which makes them perfect for a fresh bite in your salad.  You can preserve them much the same way you do lemons or Meyer lemons or go the chutney/marmalade/curd route, but I also loooove this recipe for orangecello, an orange-y take on limoncello!  It's genius to throw in a vanilla bean.

 

 

POMELOS

Photo: Food52

Photo: Food52

Also known as the Chinese grapefruit, these guys are much larger than your average grapefruit; they also have a much milder, sweeter flavor to them as well.  They are native to South and Southeast Asia (I ate my way through them in the form of salads when I was Thailand) and can be found in most asian grocery stores.  They go great in a simple noodle dish, on seafood and are perfect for any citrus-y cocktail.  For these, making a candied peel is a great way to preserve their flavor.

 

 

SUMO CITRUS

Photo: The Kitchn

Photo: The Kitchn

I am now addicted to these delicious ‘oranges’, but unfortunately their season just ended! Sumos are a hybrid between a navel orange and a mandarin.  Larger than your average orange, much easier to peel, super sweet and juicy, I haven’t had a bad one yet!  They took 30 years to develop in Japan and were only available in California but they have finally made their way to the East Coast during their short season.  You could add these to any recipe that calls for citrus…..sure.  But every time I buy these in the store I eat them so fast they don’t make it in to my cooking! 

 

Enjoy!

tags: winter citrus, preserved lemons, how to make preserved lemons, kumquats, pomelos, peak season citrus, marmalade, chutney, orangecello
categories: all 3, blog, lifestyle-1, recipes, traditions
Wednesday 03.30.16
Posted by Aliya LeeKong
 

Smoked Peach Chutney

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View fullsize smoked-peach-pic3-500x333.jpg

Smoked Peach Chutney

Biting through velvet skin into the honeyed-sweet juiciness of a peach is such a summer pleasure.  I’ve been on a quest, from farm stand to farm stand, to find the best of the bunch and have tasted this summer the stuff poets write about.  Of course, a few weekends back, I got a bit carried away at a local stand, and I ended up with more peaches than I knew what to do with.  What better way to use up this peak season fruit than to turn it into a chutney…Interestingly enough, it was a cocktail that inspired the flavor combo for the chutney; the drink had bourbon, crème de peche and cumin.  Genius!  The smokiness of the bourbon played beautifully off of the sweet tanginess of the peach intermingling with the warm earthiness of the cumin.  I wanted to figure out how to capture that in this chutney.

Smoking was the answer, and you can use either a stovetop smoker (my lifesaver in a NYC kitchen…) or the grill.  The smoked peaches by themselves are distinctive but a bit overwhelming until cooked down a bit more with some sugar, honey and the roasted cumin seeds.  The resulting chutney has a gorgeous flavor!  Smoky, sweet, tangy, with the bite of the cumin seed…it’s perfect on pork chops, fish or even with creamy brie on crackers. Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields approximately 1 quart

6 large, lusciously-ripe peaches, halved with pit removed (skin on)

1 ¼ tbsps cumin seeds

2-3 tbsps water

¼ cup sugar

¼ cup honey

pinch of salt

Procedure

The first step of this chutney is smoking the peaches. I used a stovetop smoker and cherry wood.  Placing the peaches cut side down on the grate, I smoked the peaches for 6 minutes and achieved the perfect level of smokiness.  If you choose to do this on the grill, I would keep the temperature low (200° F to 225° F).  Once the chips start to smoke, place the peaches cut side down on the side with no flame (indirect heat), cover, and smoke for about 10-15 minutes.

Peel the peaches, the skin should slip off relatively easily, and cut into a fine dice.  Set aside.

Heat a medium-sized pot over medium heat.  Add the cumin seeds, and toast, stirring, until fragrant and slightly darker in color.  Reduce the heat slightly, add the diced peaches and remaining ingredients and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring at intervals, until the peaches are soft.  You want this chutney to have form, so overcooking will turn the peaches to mush.

You can serve this warm, cold, or at room temperature.

tags: recipes for summer, peaches, chutney, condiments
categories: breakfast, recipes, snacks, side dishes, vegetarian, all-3
Monday 08.22.11
Posted by Aliya LeeKong