The Very Versatile Winter Squash

THE VERY VERSATILE WINTER SQUASH

The leaves are changing colors, the air has a cool crisp smell to it and the farmers' market is booming with a ton of winter squashes. Nothing says cold weather comfort food than a great squash soup, roasted root vegetables with your Sunday supper or a nice, warming Indian curry. The only difficulty is choosing which squash to use in your dish! I put together a few of my favorite ways to bring some warmth to your dinner table this winter.

SOUPS

The first weekend of October has passed, and the heating has kicked in. You know winter is looming around the corner, and the upside is that it’s perfect soup-making (and eating!) weather. Everyone loves a great squash soup; they are so versatile, being sweet and savory, and take easily to different cuisines depending on the spices you use. My Sopa de Flor de Calabaza (Squash Blossom Soup), inspired by a traditional Mexican soup, is a delicious, silky and rich soup without any cream that uses butternut squash. Another warm and comforting soup is my Pumpkin Soup with Garam Masala & Creme Fraiche. This soup uses the traditional South Asian spice blend, garam masala (it’s spicy and full-flavored but has no real heat to it), and the warming spices in the blend pair perfectly with pumpkin.

ROASTED

Roasting squash is a no brainer, and cut into pieces, a good squash only needs about 20 to 30 minutes in a 400° F oven. Of course, the old standby butternut is fantastic here, but kabocha, which is an Asian variety of winter squash, is also delicious. It has a strong and sweet flavor that pairs well with spices. Delicata is another great options because it has super thin skin and is really easy to peel.

Above is a photo from my cookbook for a savoury, winter vegetable crumble; roasted squash on its own would be delicious with a salty, Parmesan-laced crumble topping.. The great thing about roasted squash is you can eat it as is, purée it (see below), stuff it before roasting, make it into a hash by itself or with sweet potatoes or even toss it into a salad that day or the next! I personally love this Miso Harissa Delicata Squash salad recipe.

PURÉES

Another great use for winter squashes is purées. They make a great substitute for the stand-by mashed potato side and are beyond easy to make. This recipe is the most basic - a great building block in your kitchen arsenal that you can tailor to your tastes. A few ideas: add roasted garlic, truffle oil, chopped olives, pickled chilies or sprinkle with za'atar to make it extra special.

CURRY

To me, nothing is more satisfy or warming to the soul than curling up on the couch with my pajamas, a good movie, or book, and a hearty bowl of curry and rice. Curries originate from the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia. They can be wet or dry with wet curries resembling stews in a significant amount of sauce and dry curries cooked with little liquid that evaporates and leaves a coating on the ingredients. Curries usually involve a variety of spices with the main spices being turmeric, coriander, and cumin on the Indian side of things; chili is always a player. Southeast Asian curries make use of different chili pastes and other herbs, aromatics and spices like kaffir, lemongrass, and galangal. Lucky for us, squashes play well with all different types of curry. Check out this one for Acorn Squash with Fenugreek, Chili, and Amchur.

PASTA

When the weather turns cool, who doesn’t love coming home to lasagna or a big bowl of pasta on the table? To make traditional lasagna a bit more interesting, try adding some squash in between the lush layers of pasta, cheese and sauce. OR get a bit more advanced and try this gnocchi. If gluten isn't your thing, spaghetti squash makes a fantastic substitute. Raw, it looks just like other squashes on the inside, but after it is cooked the insides fall out in ribbons resembling spaghetti. This recipe uses the spaghetti squash as the star of the “pasta dish”.

DESSERTS & BREADS

Being such a versatile vegetable, squashes can also find themselves in the dessert category. Hello…..pumpkin pie anyone!? But don’t just let the pumpkins have all the fun in the pies, butternut and acorn squash can hold their own in this category too! Try my bread recipe using butternut squash with apples and maple to make a delicious moist bread to serve with afternoon tea.

Enjoy!

Grilled Lamb Sirloin Tacos with Corn, Pickled Cherry Peppers & Chipotle Crema

GRILLED LAMB SIRLOIN TACOS WITH CORN, PICKLED CHERRY PEPPERS & CHIPOTLE CREMA

Last weekend, a friend of mine, Molly Tavoletti, stopped by (who you may know from her drool-worthy Instagram!). In any case, we got to talking, drinking wine, and I whipped up a few of these lamb sirloin tacos for us to munch on during girl (and career and wine and life...) talk on that beautiful, sunny Brooklyn afternoon.

I know there aren't a ton of lamb sirloin recipes out there, but it really has become for me my new duck breast. It's meaty and rich with a gorgeous fat cap that crisps. On the grill, the smokiness adds such depth of flavor and, of course, that signature char.

When you bite into a taco, you want flavor AND texture. This one has grilled corn for sweetness, a bit of shredded red cabbage for crunch, homemade pickled cherry peppers for acidity and heat, and a lovely chipotle crema for tang, smokiness and silkiness.

Enjoy!

Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

For the tacos:

Wood chips wrapped in foil (optional; I like to use applewood)

Canola Oil

2 ears corn

Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper

2 (8 oz) lamb sirloins

8 corn tortillas

½ cup shredded red cabbage

¼ cup pickled cherry peppers

¼ cup cilantro, leaves only

For the sauce (yields a bit more than a cup):

8 oz Mexican crema or crème fraiche

2 to 3 chipotles in adobo (canned)

1 garlic clove

Kosher salt to taste

Procedure

Preheat the grill to medium-high (400-450° F). Place the foil-wrapped wood chips on the grill, if using, making sure you’ve cut holes for the smoke to escape. Oil the grill well.

For the corn: I prefer roasting them in their husks in a 400° F oven for 25 to 30 minutes prior to grilling. This keeps them really tender and moist, and the husks and silk just slip right off. Then, I brush them with oil and season with salt and pepper before finishing them on the grill for 5 minutes, just to char the outside. You can also grill them from start to finish – after removing their husks and silk, 15 to 20 minutes in a closed grill, turning every 5 minutes or so. Cut corn from the cobs.

For the lamb: Coat with oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Place fat cap-side down on the grill and grill for 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the piece, turning once midway through cooking. The internal temp should be around 130° F, but basically it should feel like the fleshy part of your palm for medium-rare. Cook longer if you prefer medium to well done lamb. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and rest for 5 minutes under a foil tent. Slice thinly against the grain for the tacos.

Brush the corn tortillas lightly with oil and grill for 2 to 3 minutes flipping a few times just to warm through.

For the sauce: While the lamb is resting, to a food processor, add the crema or crème fraiche along with the chipotles in adobo and garlic. Process until smooth and adjust seasoning if necessary.

To assemble the tacos: Spread a bit of the crema in the middle of the tortilla. Pile on a slice or two lamb. Top with a spoonful or two of the grilled corn, shredded cabbage, a few pickled cherry peppers, and a few cilantro leaves.

Strawberry-Peach Basil Drinking Vinegar (Shrub)

STRAWBERRY-PEACH BASIL DRINKING VINEGAR

The summer has been ridiculously hot! and, for me, the perfect thirst quencher has a few things: (1) it has to be cold (obvi...). (2) it needs acid - think lemonade! some sort of tart bite to it. (3) and a hint of sweetness (4) sometimes, bubbles help!

In a lot of different cultures, instead of citrus fruits, vinegar is used to add that touch of sour. Whether it's Irani sekanjabin, a simple syrup infused with vinegar and mint, Greek posca made with vinegar, water and herbs, Asian drinking vinegars or simply the various cultural adages that drinking vinegar has health benefits, it's sort of been around for a long time, and, if you live in Brooklyn like me, some variation may just be in your corner bodega....

Shrub is the name given to the American colonial era version of the drink, and the modern versions of this drink often have fruits. Mine has strawberries and peaches, and, not just any strawberries and peaches - the most bruised and battered ones! Yes, this is an amazing way to utilize the fruits that are still good but may not make it to your fruit plate or win any beauty contests. Typically, you sort of mix everything together (i.e. cold brew it) and let the flavor develop over a week or two. For the impatient ones among us, myself included, I cook the fruit down with raw honey (in lieu of sugar) and herbs (here, a gorge, purple basil that has been growing like a weed in my garden). I finish it off with some raw apple cider vinegar, and once cooled and strained, it's ready to go!

There are a million different combinations you can make with this recipe - different fruits, different herbs, and even different vinegars. I take a few tablespoons of this over ice and top it off with some club soda (and sometimes vodka...) for the ultimate refreshing summer drink!

Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields approximately 2 1/2 cups

1 cup strawberries, hulled and quartered

1 cup peaches, pitted and diced

8-9 leaves basil (purple or green)

1/2 - 2/3 cup raw honey (adjust to your sweetness preference)

1 cup raw apple cider vinegar

Procedure

In a medium pot, bring strawberries, peaches, basil, honey, and 1 cup of water up to a boil. Lower to a simmer and simmer for about 3 to 5 minutes until the fruit breaks down. Remove from the heat, add the vinegar and let the mixture cool to room temperature.

Strain, pressing all of the juice out of the fruits as you do, and refrigerate. It should keep for about a month (or even longer, though I never have any after that point!).

I take about 4 tablespoons of the shrub over ice and top with a 1/2 cup of club soda or even fresh coconut water for a great drink.

My Top 5 Beach Picnic Recipes

MY TOP 5 BEACH PICNIC RECIPES

For those of us that don't live steps from the water, going to the beach means lugging around a lot of stuff (and just forget it if you have kids!). The last thing you want when you are remembering 3 different sunscreens, beach blankets, chairs and towels is to get too complicated on the food side of things. So I thought I would share some of my favorite beach picnic recipes to keep it simple and delicious.

BLUEBERRY-HIBISCUS SMASH

You have to stay hydrated while at the beach, and this is delicious with or without the vodka. Blueberries, mint, lemon and hibiscus tea - It's tart, lightly sweet and super thirst-quenching.

RED LENTIL DUMPLINGS

LOVE these red lentil dumplings from 101 Cookbooks. The lentils are blended with roasted tomatoes, smoked paprika and garlic and wrapped up in potsticker wrappers. These are protein-packed but not too bulky for beach-eating, and I love that they taste great (and keep) at room temperature.

ISRAELI COUSCOUS SALAD WITH LEMON, FENNEL AND BASIL

The key to a great beach salad is one that can stand up to the warm weather and doesn't get all wilty. This salad is great because the fennel adds that perfect bite, basil and lemon give it brightness, and the couscous adds a bit of bulk to keep you satisfied.

BAKED SWEET POTATO CHIPS

Whether it's for the car ride or while you're lazing, something salty and crunchy is always in order, and I happen to love this recipe for baked sweet potato chips. You basically slice up sweet potatoes, and all the work happens while they dehydrate in the oven...

DARK CHOCOLATE, CINNAMON & OATMEAL COOKIES

At the end of the day after no one can see or care about your bloat, indulge in these amazing cookies. These are my most treasured, favorite cookie recipe ever and a go-to whenever I'm craving chocolate chip cookies. Crispy edges, chewy, oatmeal-y bite inside, bitter dark chocolate offset with a hint of cinnamon - the best!

Berry Picking + Blueberry, Raw Honey & Coconut Fool

BERRY PICKING + BLUEBERRY, RAW HONEY & COCONUT FOOL

This past weekend, I drove out to Ochs Orchard an hour and a half outside NYC to pick some berries and, really, to take my little girl berry picking for the first time. This is a gorgeous pick-your-own farm that had blueberries, raspberries and cherries that day (call for availability before going always!), and we had an incredible time. What's super cute about this farm is that they have a donkey and goat that you can pet and feed and also a farm store with serious ice cream (and heavenly raw honey). It's definitely worth the drive out and made for an exhausting day for my little one!

Coming home with a glut of berries means I've been messing around with recipes and preserving this week. What I love is that they are so sweet, whatever I've made I use minimal sugar. I wanted to make a non-dairy frozen dessert, so I decided to go the coconut route. Did you realize you can whip coconut cream, the semi-solid, thick layer in coconut milk? I did not! and so I set off whipping coconut cream, cooking down the blueberries to concentrate the juices and folding them in with a bit of honey. The result was a delicious blueberry, raw honey and coconut fool (a fool is an English dessert which usually has fruit folded into whipped cream or other custard).

I really loved it in it's chilled, custard-like state; all of the flavors really stood out that way - the creaminess of the coconut, the slightly tart and sweet, syrupy blueberries and the floral, raw honey. I cooked the blueberries down with a bit of sherry vinegar and honey, and it really brought out all that signature blueberry flavor. BUT I still wanted to see what happened if I froze it...and so I did. It made for a delicious semifreddo though the blueberries and low sugar content made it a bit more icy than I prefer. Verdict on the semifreddo: flavor on point, texture not the best. So the recipe I'm sharing is for the fool. Feel free to enjoy it however you want!

Ingredients

Yields 1 9” x 5” loaf pan

Blueberry mixture:

2 ¾ cups blueberries

2 tablespoons raw honey, plus more for drizzling

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

3 tablespoons water

a pinch of salt

Fool base:

4 cans coconut milk, chilled in the fridge overnight

2 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon cinnamon

Procedure

A few things to do ahead of time: (1) make sure to chill the coconut milk overnight in the fridge to solidify the coconut cream; and (2) chill the whipping bowl and whisk or whisk attachment in the fridge for a half hour or so before using (will help it whip up).

Heat blueberries with honey and vinegar over medium heat. Simmer covered for 5 minutes until the blueberries break down and then simmer uncovered another 4 to 5 minutes until the juice thickens. Cool completely (and it will continue to thicken as it cools).

Open the chilled cans of coconut milk and take out the top, solid layer of coconut cream only, leaving behind the water. Whip the coconut cream in the chilled bowl with confectioner’s sugar, vanilla and cinnamon for 3 to 4 minutes using either a stand/hand mixer or straight arm strength.

Layer half of the coconut mixture in the loaf pan. Drizzle all over with raw honey and half of the blueberry mixture. Top with the remaining whipped coconut cream and repeat. Take a butter knife and make swirls to incorporate the layers. Chill for a minimum of 4 hours before serving.

You can also freeze it if you want to go the semifreddo route!

Blueberry-Hibiscus Smash

BLUEBERRY-HIBISCUS SMASH

It feels like the long wait is over and the warmth has finally arrived! I've been doing fam brunches for the past couple weeks - inviting friends to come by when they can on a Sunday, cooking up a storm, and letting the day linger as we all eat and chat and have a few cocktails. One of my favorite things to do is make a huge pitcher of (unsweetened) hibiscus tea ahead of time; it's the perfect mixer. I love combining it with freshly squeezed juice from the market or from whatever I have on hand for an arnold palmer of sorts. With a great, infused simple syrup (ginger, mint, rose, clove), I have endless variations for both mocktails and cocktails.

For this cocktail, I keep it super simple - muddling together mint, fresh blueberries, and lemon. Honey sweetens it up a bit, and, of course, the hibiscus tea adds tartness. The smash was created as a simpler version of the mint julep - it only requires a bit of muddling rather than making a mint simple syrup or extract. It was originally made with whiskey, but there are tons of versions with vodka, rum and gin. For this one I flip flop between using rum and vodka (I can't decide which I like better!), so pick your own poison and enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields one cocktail

6 or 7 mint leaves

8 or 9 blueberries, divided

2 lemon slices

2 teaspoons honey

4 ounces unsweetened, hibiscus tea*

2 ounces vodka or rum

Procedure

In a cocktail shaker, muddle together the mint leaves with the 4 or 5 blueberries and the lemon slices to release the juices and oils. Add the honey, hibiscus tea, and spirit and shake well to combine.

Transfer to a rocks glass filled halfway with ice and garnish with the remaining blueberries and a mint sprig.

*For loose hibiscus tea, my ratio is 1 cup dried hibiscus leaves per 10 cups water. I generally let mine sit overnight before straining,

Sugar Plum Sherbet with Star Anise

My tongue just twisted writing the title to this! The unbearable heat in NYC has lead me to more inventive ways of cooling down. What could be better than a homemade, refreshing fruit drink made with seasonal ingredients and interesting flavors?

Sherbet in America has come to take on a sorbet-like connotation, but the origins are really in the word “sharbah”, which is Arabic for “a drink”. Sherbet (or sharbat as we called it growing up) is a soft drink of sorts made from fruits, flower petals, and/or herbs. These are often extracted with sugar and lime juice to form a syrup, which is then diluted with water, milk, or evaporated milk and served over ice. Falooda, a South Asian sherbet, has always been a favorite of mine; it’s intoxicatingly flavored with rose syrup – will have to make it soon. Hibiscus, screw pine (amazing and unique), and saffron are other flavors often used in sherbets.

Turkey, India, Afghanistan – to name a few – all have their versions of sherbet. I’ve been researching Turkish food more as I’m planning a trip there for later this year (seriously canNOT wait), and I came across a recipe for sour cherry sherbet. That was the inception of this recipe. In the greenmarket, I stumbled upon these luscious, burstingly-ripe sugar plums and thought these one-up a sour cherry any day.

I also personally love the combination of plum with vanilla, and the star anise creates a beautiful perfume to the drink. The plum-tartness is balanced out well by the creaminess of the evaporated milk, and the result is actually quite delicate, more fruity than creamy. The milk can be left out of the recipe for those who don’t tolerate it well or simply want to watch calories – it’s delicious as a simple fruit drink over ice. I mixed a little sugar and cinnamon to create a rim on a martini glass and served it that way – lovely. Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields approximately 9 to 10 cups

8 cups water

1 ½ cups sugar

1 ¾ lbs sugar plums (1 carton)

½ vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped

2 star anise pods

1 can evaporated milk

Ground cinnamon and sugar (for glass rim, optional)

Procedure

This is super easy.

In a medium pot, heat water on high. Add sugar and stir to dissolve.

Add whole plums, vanilla, and star anise. Bring up to a boil and lower to a simmer. Simmer, partially covered for 15 minutes. Uncover, and simmer for another 5 minutes. Throughout the simmering process, you want to mash the plums with a spoon – they come apart really easily.

Strain through a cheesecloth- lined mesh strainer. Pick up the ends of the cheesecloth and twist to squeeze all of the juice out of the plums. You may need to let it cool a bit before doing this. Discard the solids.

Let juice cool for a few hours in the fridge. Add evaporated milk. Serve over ice or in a cinnamon sugar-lined martini glass.

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